Areopagus: Why Should I Go There?

Category: Areopagus
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

Acropolis from AreopagusIt’s not much to look at … a rocky nub overshadowed by its far more imposing and famous neighbor, the Acropolis. There aren’t any ancient ruins that grace the site.

But you don’t come to the Areopagus to see … you come to hear. There are dozens of stories that crowd this lonely rock, stories about gods and heroes and apostles. There may not be a spot in Athens (or the world, for that matter) where more important events, involving more important people, at more important points in history took place. The Areopagus is poor in sights and rich in significance.

It was here that Ares defended himself against murder charges. A son of Poseidon attempted to rape the daughter of Ares. When Ares intervened and killed the boy, Poseidon wanted justice (or revenge). The Olympian gods gathered here to judge the matter and, eventually, set Ares free. From that point on, the Areopagus became the site where all capital cases—murder, treason, heresy—were tried.

Xerxes pitched his command tent on this site during the Persians’ occupation of Athens. From this vantage point, Xerxes watched his soldiers tear the city apart. Here, the high-class and highly-paid prostitute Phryne, about to be convicted of blasphemy, stood and dropped her robe. So smitten was the jury with her beauty, they immediately pronounced her innocent (of blasphemy anyway!).

And it was here that the Apostle Paul stood before the learned men of Athens and proclaimed—in the shadow of the Acropolis—that God did not live in temples and was not tended to by human hands. They listened closely until he talked about resurrection from the dead, at which point they lost interest. Not an uncommon reaction throughout the centuries.

If you visit this site without knowing the stories, you will be disappointed. But with a little imagination and an understanding of the events that transpired here, the Areopagus could just become your favorite spot in Athens.

Areopagus: What Will I See?

Category: Areopagus
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

Paul's Speech plaqueThere isn’t much to see on the Areopagus itself. It’s just a rock hill, barren except for cigarette butts and trash. Yes, there is a bronze plaque of the Apostle Paul’s speech to the Areopagus mounted on the base of the hill. And, yes, there are the original (and highly worn) stairs leading up to the summit.

But it’s not what you see on the Areopagus that makes this site so compelling … it’s what you see from it. Some of the best panoramic vistas in Athens are found right here on this little hill. The Acropolis rises up above you to the east: grand and majestic and imposing. The ancient agora (the living heart of Athens—where Plato walked and Pericles governed) spreads out below you to the north. West of you is a great view of the Pnyx, where citizens gathered in ancient times and voted on the important issues of the day. South is the Filapappos Hill (also known as the Hill of the Muses). Everywhere you turn, as you stand on this historic spot, there is new and important site to see.

And it’s not just old stuff. There are wonderful views of modern Athens as well. Watch people strolling along Apostolou Paulou Street (the pedestrian promenade that borders the west side of the Acropolis/agora. See busy Adrianou Street, with its teeming crowds and sidewalk restaurants. Catch sight of Mount Lycavittos in the distance with a sea of red and blue and white roofs in between.

Areopagus: Preparation

Category: Areopagus
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

There are several readings you could do to educate yourself about the important events that took place on this site.

Quote from Apollodorus: “In attempting to violate Alcippe, Halirrhothius, son of Poseidon and a nymph Euryte, was detected and killed by Ares. Impeached by Poseidon, Ares was tried in the AreoAreopagus 2pagus before the twelve gods, and was acquitted.”

Quote from a speech by Demosthenes: “First, then, in ancient times, as we are told by tradition, in this court alone the gods condescended both to render and to demand satisfaction for homicide, and to sit in judgement upon contending litigants,–Poseidon, according to the legend, deigning to demand justice from Ares on behalf of his son Halirrothius, and the twelve gods to adjudicate between the Eumenides and Orestes. These are ancient stories; let us pass to a later date. This is the only tribunal which no despot, no oligarchy, no democracy, has ever dared to deprive of its jurisdiction in cases of murder, all men agreeing that in such cases no jurisprudence of their own devising could be more effective than that which has been devised in this court. In addition to these great merits, here, and here alone, no convicted defendant and no defeated prosecutor has ever made good any complaint against the justice of the verdict given.”     

Another quote from Demosthenes: “You are all of course aware that in the Areopagus, where the law both permits and enjoins the trial of homicide, first, every man who brings accusation of such a crime must make oath by invoking destruction upon himself, his kindred, and his household; secondly, that he must not treat this oath as an ordinary oath, but as one which no man swears for any other purpose; for he stands over the entrails of a boar, a ram, and a bull, and they must have been slaughtered by the necessary officers and on the days appointed, so that in respect both of the time and of the functionaries every requirement of solemnity has been satisfied. Even then the person who has sworn this tremendous oath does not gain immediate credence; and if any falsehood is brought home to him, he will carry away with him to his children and his kindred the stain of perjury—but gain nothing. If, on the other hand, he is believed to be laying a just charge, and if he proves the accused guilty of murder, even then he has no power over the convicted criminal; only the laws and the appointed officers have power over the man for punishment.”

Quote from Pausanius: There is also the Hill of Ares, so named because Ares was the first to be tried here; my narrative has already told that he killed Halirrhothius, and what were his grounds for this act. Afterwards, they say, Orestes was tried for killing his mother, and there is an altar to Athena Areia (Warlike), which he dedicated on being acquitted. The unhewn stones on which stand the defendants and the prosecutors, they call the stone of Outrage and the stone of Ruthlessness.

Read The Eumenides of Aeschylus which tells the story of the trials (and tribulations) of Orestes, son of Agamemnon, who killed his mother and her consort to avenge the murder of his father. His trial for matricide took place on the Areopagus, according to legend.

http://www.amazon.com/Oresteia-Agamemnon-Libation-Eumenides-Classics/dp/0140443339/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1249421626&sr=8-1

Check out this very informative article:
http://www.stoa.org/projects/demos/article_areopagus?page=all&greekEncoding=unicodeC

Read also the account of the Apostle Paul’s address to the Areopagus Council: The New Testament, Acts 17:16-34.

Areopagus: How To Get There

Category: Areopagus
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

Areopagus 2The Areopagus is sandwiched between the agora and the Acropolis.

You can reach the Areopagus from either the Acropolis (Line #2) or the Thissio (Line #1) stations. If you use the Acropolis Station, find Dionissiou Areopagitou Street and head uphill (west) until you crest the hill. Look for a road winding up to your right. Follow this for about 30-40 yards and start looking for the Areopagus on your left. If you use the Thissio Station, find Apostolou Paulou Street and (again) walk uphill (south) until you reach the crest. Look for the same road winding up the hill (only, from this direction, the road will be on your left).

The Areopagus is right next door to the Acropolis itself. When in doubt, follow signs to the Acropolis. If you find yourself at the western entry gate to the Acropolis, you’re just a stone’s throw from the right spot. Just wander downhill (north) to the Areopagus.

Areopagus: Accessibility

Category: Areopagus
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

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handicapped grey1handicapped grey1

 

The Areopagus is one of the least accessible sites in Athens.Areopagus steps

Getting to the Areopagus is fairly easy. There is a paved road leading up to the base of the hill (and then on to the Acropolis entrance). Though somewhat steep and, I’d imagine, difficult to navigate with an unpowered wheelchair, vehicles can drive up and drop off right at the base of the Areopagus. At least you’re able to see the plaque containing Paul’s address to the Council (albeit in ancient Greek) from this vantage point. There are benches nearby, shaded by overhanging Cypress trees, and handicapped accessible bathrooms just a few yards removed.

It’s getting to the top of this rock that proves challenging. Until recently, the only access to the summit was via the worn, slippery, dangerous stone steps that have served as the main access to this site for millennia. Even people in great shape and with no physical disabilities had to be careful to watch their footing and keep their balance. In the rain, you’d need to be suicidal to climb these stairs.Areopagus--new steps01

A few years ago, a steel and wooden staircase was added on the south side of the Areopagus. This makes access safer for most of us, although it certainly does not provide access to those in wheelchairs or using walkers.

Even if you are physically able to navigate the stairs, there is still the surface of the summit—knobbed and uneven and fractured. It’s like walking on a moon-scape. There is a hint of a path on part of the hill—although even that is more gesture than help.

Bottom line: don’t attempt unless you are sure-footed and confident of your balance … absolutely never attempt in the rain.

Agora Museum: Word to the Wise

Category: Agora Museum
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

The collection is arranged chronologically, with the oldest artifacts near the entrance and the newest near the exit.

Like the agora, the Agora Museum requires some kind of guide—person, book, or audio—to make sense of the artifacts on display. If you don’t know P1010282what you’re looking at, if you can’t listen to the stories and understand the history, you won’t get much from a visit here. There is the occasional wall text and informative caption available in the museum, but you can’t count on these to tell the whole story.

You should devote at least half an hour to this collection. With the right information, you can profitably spend an hour or two.

You will be asked to check larger rucksacks and bags before entering the museum. The check room is located at the southern end of the Stoa of Attalos.

Water fountain and restrooms are located in the Stoa of Attalos—on the north end. Although there are no benches in the museum itself, you can step out into the Stoa for a rest-break on one of the benches located along the central spine of columns.

Videos and photos are allowed inside the museum. But, please, no flash or artificial lighting.

Agora Museum: Why Go There

Category: Agora Museum
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

You want to visit the Agora Museum Spartan Shieldbecause:

  • It’s a quiet haven from hot summer days or cold winter winds.
  • You can find here the remains of ordinary life in long-ago Athens: an infant’s potty chair; a Spartan soldier’s shield; a baby’s grave; a citizen’s ballot; a poor man’s cup; a child’s knuckle bones.
  • There is not another museum in the world that has the wealth of artifacts related to Athens’ democratic government: a ballot box and ballots; a jury selection device; a proclamation against tyranny; a timer for political and legal speeches; standards for weights and measures; discarded ballots from ostracisms.
  • You’ll find here direct connections to famous historical figures like Pericles, Themistocles, and Kimon.

Agora Museum: What Will I See?

Category: Agora Museum
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

P1010221Most museums display the detritus of the rich and famous. The Agora Museum gives us a more intimate look at the lives of ordinary people: the shopping, voting, worshiping, legal, and governmental realities of people who lived 2500 years ago. Here’s what you can expect to see:

  1. Artifacts excavated from the site of the ancient Agora in Athens dating from two or three millennium before Christ to the 5th Century of our own era.
  2. Remains from over 150 grave sites excavated in the Agora.
  3. A pyxis (or jewelry box) with pottery horses standing on the lid.
  4. An aryballos in the shape of a young athlete, binding a victory ribbon around his head.
  5. An ancient potty chair for young children.
  6. A stele with the “Law against Tyranny” inscribed on it.
  7. A rare Spartan shield, captured at Sphacteria.
  8. Ostraka with the names Pericles, Kimon, and Themistocles incised on them.
  9. A kleroterion—a device for randomizing the selection of juries.
  10. A klepsydra (or water clock) for timing public speeches.
  11. A satyr with a wicked grin and bad-boy demeanor.


Agora Museum: How to Get There

Category: Agora Museum
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

Agora Museum--how to get thereThe Agora Museum is located inside the agora site. [Read the post on Agora: How to Get There to find your way to the agora.]

The museum sits on the east side of the agora in the restored Stoa of Attalos. If you enter the agora from the North Entrance, follow the Panathenaic Way (the main, paved walkway running through the agora) south for 50 yards. The Stoa of Attalos will be on your left and unmissable. (Coming from the Acropolis, you’ll enter the agora from the south. In that case keep walking north and the Stoa will be on your right.)

The access to the Stoa is on the southern end—the end furthest from the North Entrance. Climb up into the Stoa. The museum is located in rooms that run along the back wall of the Stoa. You can locate the entrance to the museum about 1/3 of the way down.

Agora Museum: Accessibility

Category: Agora Museum
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

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The only accessibility challenge with the Agora Museum is getting to it. [Read the post on Agora: Accessibility which outlines a few accessibility issues to be aware of when visiting this site.] There is a paved path from the entrance of the Agora site to the Stoa of Attalos. A wooden ramp gives wheelchair access up to the Stoa itself.

Once in the Stoa, the floor is smooth and level. Benches in the Stoa permit visitors to rest and catch their breath and, especially on hot summer days, enjoy respite from the sun. There are handicapped stalls in the restroom, although you are required to negotiate a step to reach them.

The museum itself is all on one level and does not require visitors to negotiate any steps. Because the museum is small and narrow, crowds can pose a problem. During peak hours, getting around in a wheel chair or with a cane/walker can be a challenge. Visiting early or late in the day will help you avoid the worst of the crowds.

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