Steve and I enjoyed a good continental breakfast at the Neos Olympos and then hit the streets. We took the Metro from Metaxourgia to the Acropolis stations. Yesterday was Orthodox Easter, so all museums and sites were closed. Today, the Monday following Easter, the Acropolis was open and free! Sadly, however, the New Acropolis Museum is usually closed on Mondays and today was no exception.

So Steve and I walked past the Museum (while I tried to fill him in on all he was missing—an effort that left him less appreciative than I was hoping!) and then into the SouthEast entrance to the Acropolis. We toiled up the south slope—past the Theater of Dionysos, the Stoa of Eumenes, the Asclepion, and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. Wonderful sites, rich in history. The Theater of Dionysos is especially significant. Here, in the annual competition known as the Dionysiou, playwrights competed for prizes and fame with trilogies of tragedies. It was in this theater that the greatest works of Sophocles, Aristophanes, Euripides, and their contemporaries were first aired.

We climbed up to the Acropolis proper. It was an absolutely stunning day. Temperatures in the low 80’s. Sun bright and sky cloudless. Even the smog was cooperating today, restricting itself to a bare glaze on the horizon. As a result, we were treated to glorious views of the entire city and, to the west, the harbor of Peraeus and the Saronic Gulf. The Propylaia (and its dainty Temple of Athena Nike) is always a delight. The Parthenon (though I have visited it dozens of times) remains awe-inspiring. And the Erechtheon (my favorite site on the Acropolis) continues to dazzle with its beauty. The site was crowded today—as busy as I’ve ever seen it.

We finally tore ourselves away from the wonders Pericles wrought, and made our way down to the Areopagus. Such a great site with such great vistas. And so many wonderful stories. I told Steve a couple (until his eyes started glazing over). A couple nearby heard me and walked over to ask if I knew what that large empty space lying at the foot of the Areopagus was—the Agora! I was happy to point out the most significant sites of the agora but was amazed all over again by how little preparation people do for their trip to Greece. It saddens me to think about how many stories are never heard, how many significant spots are never seen and appreciated, because people simply do not understand what they’re looking at or the important people and events that made their marks on these piles of stone.

Walking out of the north entrance of the Agora, we wandered over to Monastiraki Square and found Sabbas—my favorite ‘gyros pita’ place in Athens. Lamb gyros and cold Coke Zero! How can you beat that?

After lunch, we went to a rendezvous point I’d previously arranged with Anna Pylkas. She was not aware her Dad was in Athens with me. She thought she was just getting together with her Dad’s good friend. (It was, probably, an act of charity on Anna’s part although I’m sort of a godfather to the girl—we go back a long ways). Steve went for a walk, I sat sipping a coffee and waiting for Anna to show up. She did. We had a great natter. And then her Dad came up behind her and asked if she’d be interested in buying a watch. It was a classic double-take. Anna turned to shoo away another street vendor, saw her Dad and uttered a shriek that may well have been heard in Thermopylae. They hugged and shouted and cried. I sat watching, smug and satisfied in the role I’d played in arranging the surprise (dishonesty does have its uses on occasion).

I’m sitting in Starbucks (on the square of the Mitropolis Cathedral) catching up on some work while Steve and Anna walk to the Acropolis and share some father/daughter time. We’ll meet up in about an hour and then go eat at another Athens favorite of mine—Psaras.

It’s been another great day in Athens—gorgeous weather, breath-taking sites, good memories. Yes, it’s a rough job, but somebody’s got to do it.