If you’re ever in Vergina, you really do need to stay with Constantine, Roula, and Nestor at the Hotel Evridike (http://www.evridiki.com.gr/). It is a bed and breakfast, new, clean, economical, and the staff are a pleasure to work with.

We began our day with breakfast at the hotel–homemade jams and breakfast bread! Then we were off to the Vergina Museum–tomb of Philip II, father of Alexander the Great (just one minute down the road). One of the greatest museums you’ll ever visit; great collection dramatically presented. Mike and Rick loved this museum. They rated it one of the best things we’ve done in Greece so far. I agree.

Back in the car and headed east to Kavala (the ancient port of Neopolis) and Philippi. About a two hour drive. After a quick snack (instead of lunch–we were all still full from breakfast), we started our tour of Philippi. This site will fool you. You think–this far from civilization!–that there will only be a few marble columns and a foundation or two. Wrong! There are at least four layers to peel on the Philippian onion: Philip/Alexander and the Hellenistic layer; Octavian/Brutus and the Roman layer; Paul/Silas/Timothy and the apostolic layer; and the 4th/5th century early church layer. Each of these era has left its marks on the archaeology of Philippi. You can see the walls built by Philip, the Roman forum, the “prison of Paul,” and the basilicae (at least four huge churches built to serve a huge influx of Christian pilgrims) that dominated the city. A great site, full of great history.

I was disappointed (once again) that the museum remained closed. It’s been closed for 13 years now, undergoing “renovations.” When I suggested to the gate-keeper that the Parthenon did not take that long to build, she missed the profound humor involved. Some people are just slow I guess. The museum is due to open sometime this summer. This is me holding my breath!

We took a quick look at the Baptisterie of Lydia. A quiet, peaceful place on the banks of the Gangitis River. There was a group arriving at the same time (Greek Orthodox) who sat together at the small amphitheater there by the river and posed for a picture. I imposed on the priest who accompanied them (and was taking the picture) and offered to take the photos with the priest included. They loved it. Kept bringing cameras up for me to use in taking more pictures. The group was very cohesive and happy–they enjoyed being there and with each other.

We drove back to Vergina and, though we’d talked about going out for dinner somewhere, ended up staying at the Evridiki and eating there once again. It was delicious.

So, a good day in all. We are safe, sated, and sleepy. Time to turn in.