Once again, the weather … well, you’ve already heard this about the trip and far be it from me to rub in how wonderful the weather has been. Today was a little breezier and, when in the wind, felt a little cold. But I’ll take it!

We drove to Mycenae this morning. What a unique site! Most of what we’ve seen in Greece to this point has been from the Classical Era of ancient Greece (5^th Century b.c.—Acropolis, e.g.) or from the Hellenistic Era (4^th Century b.c.—Vergina museum). But the ruins and artifacts of Mycenae are far older (from the 2^nd Millennium before Christ—about 1500 b.c.!). We visited the famous “beehive tombs” (and heard the stories of Atreus, Agamemnon, Clytemnestra, and Orestes) and walked around the grave circles where Heinreich Schleimann discovered artifacts that gave new meaning to Homer’s phrase “Mycenae rich in gold.” We walked up to the crown of the citadel and viewed the megaron (or throne room) where Agamemnon himself once sat. A great site.

After a quick visit to the Mycenae Museum, we turned the car north to Corinth and went to visit the Corinthian Canal. I’ve seen it dozens of times but it never fails to awe with its scale. What an incredible accomplishment! Then out to Cenchrea, the harbor (east of Corinth) from which Paul, Aquila, and Priscilla set sail for Ephesus at the end of the second missionary journey. A beautiful little spot with little to see but much to remember!

That about wrapped up our trip. We headed back to Nafplio and had lunch (gyros pita one last time). Finally, a quick trip up the Palamadi Castle—the large, crenellated fortress that perches above the harbor and town of Nafplio. Lots of stairs. Lots of nooks and crannies to explore. A great way to spend the afternoon.

We’re about to head out for dinner (as soon as I post this blog)—our last night. A good meal, some conversation about best memories, a gelato to cap off the evening, and then (hopefully) a good sleep. We leave about 7:00 tomorrow morning to get to the airport and drop off Mike and Rick for their flight home. I’ll stay another day and then I’m on my way as well. It’s been a great trip. Rick and Mike have been wonderful travel companions. I hope their memories of our ten days in Greece will be as rich and affectionate as mine.

Sorry to sound like a broken record, but the weather was absolutely fabulous again today. Couldn’t have been better. I’m not sure I’ve had a trip to Greece where the weather was so cooperative.

We left Olympia this morning about 9:00. The owner of the Pelops Hotel (wonderful little hotel, BTW—try it out next time you’re in Olympia: ) suggested that we avoid the long, looping, and very busy interstate (running from Patra to Corinth) and instead take the road through the heart of the Peloponnese (the road from Olympia to Tripoli). Either way would get us to Corinth eventually. But I knew the interstate road well (it is an awful drive!) and opted for the road less travelled.

At Corinth, with the Temple of Apollo in the background

To say the drive was “interesting” would be a vast understatement. About 10 kilometers out of Olympia, the road turned into a piece of spaghetti that some evil genius had piled up on the side of a mountain. Narrow. Twisting. No shoulders. Sharp drop offs. Incredible. For the next 75 kilometers (or was it 1500 kilometers?), the fun just kept coming. For some of that way, the road was so narrow all traffic had to come to almost a complete stop just to pass each other. The entire highway was no wider than a single lane on most of the roads we are accustomed to. And there were buses! And trucks! And this was a “national highway”!

It finally relented and became a decent road about halfway to Tripoli. From there on, it was smooth driving. We got to Corinth about 11:45 and proceeded immediately to the site. Rick and Mike decided they really wanted to climb AcroCorinth and, since everything was closing at 3:00 (the museums here are still on “winter hours”), we had to hurry. Through the site and museum, grabbing a candy bar at a roadside stall for lunch, and then back

At the Temple of Aphrodite atop the AcroCorinth

in the car to drive most of the way up AcroCorinth. It was just after 2:00 pm when we arrived at the parking lot high above the ancient city of Corinth. We had less than an hour to make the (considerable) hike up the mountain to the Temple of Aphrodite (highest spot on the AcroCorinth), snap a few pictures, and then get back down. We made it though. Rick and Mike did fine. Their guide, on the other hand, was feeling the results of too many years and too little exercise of late.

We drove on to Nafplio (where we’ll be staying for the next two nights—the Byron Hotel:  www.byronhotel.gr. Rest … food … well, by now you know the routine.

The weather could not have been more perfect today. No, really. About 70. Sky blue and clear. A soft breeze blowing. It was delightful.

Mike and Rick at the entrance to the Olympia site

We checked out of our hotel (the Delphi Palace–thanks Lydia!) and drove along the northern edge of the Gulf of Corinth–through Agios Nikalaus, Naupactos, and Antirhio–to the new bridge spanning the Gulf at Rhio/Patra. What a beautiful suspension bridge! It glistens white against the blue of sky and sea–spreading its wings like a graceful dove. Quite a feat of engineering! I usually take the ferry over the Gulf (Agios Nikalaus to Eghio) but the bridge is a faster route to Olympia.

We crossed over to the Peloponnese and drove towards Olympia. I got sleepy and we pulled into a small town to get a coffee. It’s Sunday here and the Greek Orthodox Church was letting out from morning worship. We stood in the town square and watched as they formed up in a procession–led by a brass band–and walked an icon through the streets of the village. It was fun to watch–a slice of Greek life.

At the stadium at Olympia

We arrived in Olympia and went straight to the site. It being Sunday today, the site was free! We spent a couple of hours wandering around the temples and stadium and gymnasiums, gaping at the size of some of the ruins, awed by the accomplishments of men dead 2500 years! The trees were in blossom–rich purple and white. It was a gorgeous day with the sun shining, the wind wafting, and the bees buzzing. We had a great time.

Then to the museum. What an incredible collection. Stuff from 4500 b.c. all the way through the Roman era. The pediment sculptures from the Temple of Zeus always amaze me and move me profoundly. The Hermes of Praxiteles is one of the great masterpieces of the ancient world. The museum alone makes up for all the difficulties you must encounter to get to this site so far from the rest of the Greek world.

We checked into the Pelops Hotel (www.hotelpelops.gr), rested a bit, and then went out for a lovely dinner at a largely deserted restaurant. All in all, a great day. 

We were up early today–a long drive ahead of us. Ate breakfast and were on the road by 7:30.

We headed south again (along National Road 75), down through Larrissa and Lamia. A beautiful drive that took us past Mount Olympos (which was on glorious display–so often it is wreathed in cloud and fog). Vistas of the Aegean Sea … fishing boats floating picturesquely on aqua waters … quaint villages tucked into green valleys climbing rocky slopes to snow covered peaks. Traffic was relatively light and we made good time.

South of Lamia, we took the winding (and perilous) road to Delphi. Fortunately the weather was good, the pavement was dry, and the traffic continued light. Arriving in Delphi, we ate a gyros pita (can’t get enough of those things) and then headed straight for the site. The Stadium (at the top of the site) remains closed due to rock slides and unstable cliff faces above the Stadium. I don’t know when they will be opening that part of the site again. But there was still plenty to see, of course: treasuries, the Temple of Apollo, the theater of Delphi, the Stoa of the Athenians. Great stuff.

Then to the museum. This is a fine museum with a good collection of artifacts uncovered during the Delphi excavations. For biblical students, there is a letter from the Emperior Claudius to the Proconsul of Achaia, Lucius Junius Gallio–the very Gallio mentioned by Luke in Acts 18; the one who threw out charges brought against the Apostle Paul by the synagogue leaders. I’m including a picture showing his name (Gallio, in Greek, is written ΓΑΛΛΙΩ). This inscription allows biblical scholars to date Paul’s time in Corinth to a.d. 51/52.

We took the afternoon off. I slept and read. Mike and Rick prowled the town, looking for souvenirs and the perfect cup of coffee. I’m not sure they had much luck with either quest.

For dinner, we ate at the Symposium–a delightful meal shared with about 100 older Greek men and women who were on a tour of some kind.

Tomorrow Olympia. Until then, dear reader, may all your days be as good as the one we enjoyed here at Delphi.

If you’re ever in Vergina, you really do need to stay with Constantine, Roula, and Nestor at the Hotel Evridike (http://www.evridiki.com.gr/). It is a bed and breakfast, new, clean, economical, and the staff are a pleasure to work with.

We began our day with breakfast at the hotel–homemade jams and breakfast bread! Then we were off to the Vergina Museum–tomb of Philip II, father of Alexander the Great (just one minute down the road). One of the greatest museums you’ll ever visit; great collection dramatically presented. Mike and Rick loved this museum. They rated it one of the best things we’ve done in Greece so far. I agree.

Back in the car and headed east to Kavala (the ancient port of Neopolis) and Philippi. About a two hour drive. After a quick snack (instead of lunch–we were all still full from breakfast), we started our tour of Philippi. This site will fool you. You think–this far from civilization!–that there will only be a few marble columns and a foundation or two. Wrong! There are at least four layers to peel on the Philippian onion: Philip/Alexander and the Hellenistic layer; Octavian/Brutus and the Roman layer; Paul/Silas/Timothy and the apostolic layer; and the 4th/5th century early church layer. Each of these era has left its marks on the archaeology of Philippi. You can see the walls built by Philip, the Roman forum, the “prison of Paul,” and the basilicae (at least four huge churches built to serve a huge influx of Christian pilgrims) that dominated the city. A great site, full of great history.

I was disappointed (once again) that the museum remained closed. It’s been closed for 13 years now, undergoing “renovations.” When I suggested to the gate-keeper that the Parthenon did not take that long to build, she missed the profound humor involved. Some people are just slow I guess. The museum is due to open sometime this summer. This is me holding my breath!

We took a quick look at the Baptisterie of Lydia. A quiet, peaceful place on the banks of the Gangitis River. There was a group arriving at the same time (Greek Orthodox) who sat together at the small amphitheater there by the river and posed for a picture. I imposed on the priest who accompanied them (and was taking the picture) and offered to take the photos with the priest included. They loved it. Kept bringing cameras up for me to use in taking more pictures. The group was very cohesive and happy–they enjoyed being there and with each other.

We drove back to Vergina and, though we’d talked about going out for dinner somewhere, ended up staying at the Evridiki and eating there once again. It was delicious.

So, a good day in all. We are safe, sated, and sleepy. Time to turn in.

An incredible day today! Where to begin?

We enjoyed a great breakfast (again!) and then checked out of the Athens Cypria Hotel. Thanks Frossa for your hospitality! Rick, Mike, and I walked to the Budget office and picked up our rental car–transportation for the next 6 days.

Then it was out of Athens. Once I pick up the rental car, it would take wild donkeys to take me anywhere but OUT OF TOWN! Boy, it’s hairy driving in Athens. As it turns out, however, traffic was light and the roads were clear and we made good time getting north west to Thermopylae (a journey of only a couple of hours).

We spent over an hour on the site of Thermopylae, rehashing that pivotal battle and the people who fought there. What a great site. And what a great story. If you come to Greece, you must visit Thermopylae. Just make sure you read Steven Pressfield’s Gates of Fire (http://www.amazon.com/Gates-Fire-Novel-Battle-Thermopylae/dp/0553580531) before your visit. That way you’ll have a clue about what you’re looking at. Between the novel and my audio guide … The guys seemed to really enjoy the story of the battle, the phalanx formation of the Spartans, and the hubris of the Persians.

We moved on to Meteora (another 2 hour drive–if you drive like a Greek, which I do). Meteora is simply incredible. I’m including some of the photos I took today, although (of course) the photos simply do not do justice to these vistas. The monasteries you see were built in the 11th-14th century. Every brick, pail of mortar, glass pane, roof tile, board, and pot was winched up to the top of these incredible rock pillars by hand. Astonishing!

Rick and Mike loved this. They couldn’t stop oggling and oohing and ahhing. It was fun to watch their reactions and remember the first time I came to Meteora–before I became so jaded and cynical!

After touring the Monastery of the Great Metroon (with its wonderful collection of manuscripts dating from the 9th century–among them a complete copy of Plato!), we drove on to Vergina and the beautiful Evrydike bed and breakfast. It’s a wonderful place to stay in the lovely little village that holds one of the greatest museums in the world. We’ll visit tomorrow and I’ll let you know how it went.

Today was a better day in every way. Great weather. No crowds. Incredible sites to see.

After a wonderful breakfast (Athens Cypria has the best–I especially enjoy an anchovy or two with my scrambled eggs!), we headed out to the Acropolis. Metro (Syntagma to Acropolis).

Entered the Acropolis by the SE entrance, which gave us access to all the sites scattered along the southern slope of the Acropolis. This area is less frequently visited but one of the most
significant spots in Athens none-the-less.
If the Pnyx is the political heart of Athens, and the Acropolis is its spiritual heart, the south slope is its artistic heart. Here is where the dramatic, poetic, musical, and oratorical muses of Athens were unleashed. We paused at the Theater of Dionysus (where the great dramas of Euripides and Sophocles were introduced), the Stoa of Eumenes (where theater-goers retreated from sun and rain and took refreshment), and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus (the enclosed concert hall of ancient Athens).

Then on up the hill to the Acropolis proper. Gorgeous day. Temperatures in the 60’s. Clear skies, achingly blue. A breeze. We spent about two hours listening to the audio guides and enjoying the splendid vistas from the heights. I don’t think I’ve ever seen the air so clear. No smog. You could see for miles. It was … exhilarating.

We trudged back down the hill to the New Acropolis Museum and spent the next two hours there. What a wonderful museum. The collection is so incredible. This (along with the Acropolis and the National Archaeological Museum) are the absolute “must sees” of Athens.

Gyros at Sabbas for lunch. We sat in Monastiraki Square and ate while watching the passers by and the mimes. Then over to the Agora for a quick run through that marvelous site. We didn’t have long (they close most sites at 3:00 during “Winter Hours”–a frustrating tendency for people who have traveled so long and so expensively).

Back to the hotel for a coffee in the hotel bar and a rest–at least a chance to take your shoes off and check your email.

Dinner at Scholarhio’s. This famly run restaurant–in the Plaka district–has a set price for meals. They bring you a platter of options to choose from (the number of options depending on the number of people at table). We had meatballs, Greek salad, kalimare, greens, pork, spinach pie, and vine leaves. All wonderful. I highly recommend this place.

Now it is close to 10:00 and I’m ready for bed. We head towards Macedonia tomorrow … to the land of Alexander the Great.

Today was … well … interesting.

I went to the airport this morning to meet Rick and Mike (a small group this time! That’s OK. I enjoy small groups!). We met up as planned (they made all their connections) and I shepherded them into town and the Athens Cypria Hotel (www.athenscypriahotel.com).

I let them shower and then we met for an orientation: Athens, security, audio guides, mp3 players, etc. After that, we were ready to hit the road. We walked down to Monastiraki Metro Station and got on the metro to the New Archaeological Museum. There was a brief commotion, lots of movement and noise, and then about three young men slipped out of the train doors just as they were closing and we started moving away from the station. In less than 30 seconds, they’d managed to steal a passport, several credit cards, and a small amount of cash from my companions. They felt nothing. Pockets unzipped/unsnapped. Wallets removed. And no sense of what had happened until I asked whether everyone still had their stuff. The quick exit from the train doors had made me suspicious.

Sure enough. One then the other of my friends experienced that sickening feeling of being the victim of a theft … they realized their wallets had disappeared. I mean it was fast! A work of art you would admire if theft were not so dispicable.

We went immediately back to the hotel, got directions to the police station, went there and filed a report, and returned to the hotel to find out where the American Embassy was located. The receptionist at the Cypria (“Tossi”) beamed at us as we returned and said the manager of the Monastiraki station had called to say the passport had been found. Aparently, well organized and very skillful bands of thieves had been working in this station (he assured us these people were part of a Romanian gang), stripping wallets from unsuspecting tourists, taking the cash, and throwing passports and credit cards on the ground or into the trash.

In the end, my friends lost only a few dollars in cash and their credits cards (which were immediately cancelled, of course). It was a good ending to what could have been a trip-altering event.

So a few hints about protecting yourself from these pickpockets.

1. Use a money pouch that hangs around your neck and lays under your shirt. My friends had travel pants with zippered pockets. In less than a moment, these thieves had seen bulges in these pockets, felt for them with their hands, unsnapped and unzipped the pockets, and lifted the wallets without any tell-tale signs. We were all too focused on the diversion and the noise. [I have a lot of experience in Greece and I must say I had no idea how quick and effective these thieves could be. I know now!]
2. Beware of crowded, cramped spaces where lots of people are pushing and jostling. Thieves target these areas and watch for likely victims. They know you are a tourist in micro-seconds. They can tell by your haircut, your shoes, the fit and labels of your clothes, and a hundred other clues. In an instant, they can identify you, size you up, and put a well-organized plan into action. You don’t have a chance.
3. Keep a hand over any valuables (camera, money pouch) when you are in such public and crowded spaces.
4. Be very aware of what is happening around you. If something unusual happens, count on it … you are being distracted. Clamp your hand on your valuables and if anyone so much as touches you, yell “Ochi!!!” (“No!)” in a don’t-mess-with-me tone of voice.
5. Carry a large-caliber hand gun and blow away anyone who happens … no, I guess that’s not such a good idea. It would certainly feel good, but would have more negative consequences in the long run.
6. If you are the victim of such a heinous, dispicable, cowardly act (and may the thieves today be cursed with hives, measles, dropsey, scurvvy, and testicular cancer!), keep telling yourself “It’s not the end of the world.” It’s not. Really! This happens every day. The police station and your embassy knows how to handle such matters. They are there to help you and will.
7. Get on the phone and immediately cancel all your credit cards. As I said before, they’re probably just throwing the cards away (don’t want to be incriminated by holding onto them) but better safe than sorry. The credit card companies will bend over backwards to help. After all, they are responsible for unauthorized charges to your credit cards after you’ve reported them stolen. (Even before, actually.)
8. Get a police report and, form in hand, go to your embassy. They will issue you a temporary passport that can get you home. It may take a few days so best get this taken care of before moving on with your trip.

OK. We ended the day on a happier note, walking around Athens looking at Hadrian’s Arch, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the Pnyx, the Areopagus, and the Acropolis/Parthenon in all their radiant, night-glory–lit up in magnificent display. We ate at Psara’s (yes, again!) and then walked home full, tired, and relieved.

Your day may not have been marred by theft. But I bet it wasn’t lifted by glorious ruins, heroic stories, and the thrill of being in an exotic location far from the press of the normal. Don’t pity us for a bad experience. Come join us and take a risk that, with the bad, comes a chance to experience things that ordinary life can never offer.

Steve and I enjoyed a good continental breakfast at the Neos Olympos and then hit the streets. We took the Metro from Metaxourgia to the Acropolis stations. Yesterday was Orthodox Easter, so all museums and sites were closed. Today, the Monday following Easter, the Acropolis was open and free! Sadly, however, the New Acropolis Museum is usually closed on Mondays and today was no exception.

So Steve and I walked past the Museum (while I tried to fill him in on all he was missing—an effort that left him less appreciative than I was hoping!) and then into the SouthEast entrance to the Acropolis. We toiled up the south slope—past the Theater of Dionysos, the Stoa of Eumenes, the Asclepion, and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. Wonderful sites, rich in history. The Theater of Dionysos is especially significant. Here, in the annual competition known as the Dionysiou, playwrights competed for prizes and fame with trilogies of tragedies. It was in this theater that the greatest works of Sophocles, Aristophanes, Euripides, and their contemporaries were first aired.

We climbed up to the Acropolis proper. It was an absolutely stunning day. Temperatures in the low 80’s. Sun bright and sky cloudless. Even the smog was cooperating today, restricting itself to a bare glaze on the horizon. As a result, we were treated to glorious views of the entire city and, to the west, the harbor of Peraeus and the Saronic Gulf. The Propylaia (and its dainty Temple of Athena Nike) is always a delight. The Parthenon (though I have visited it dozens of times) remains awe-inspiring. And the Erechtheon (my favorite site on the Acropolis) continues to dazzle with its beauty. The site was crowded today—as busy as I’ve ever seen it.

We finally tore ourselves away from the wonders Pericles wrought, and made our way down to the Areopagus. Such a great site with such great vistas. And so many wonderful stories. I told Steve a couple (until his eyes started glazing over). A couple nearby heard me and walked over to ask if I knew what that large empty space lying at the foot of the Areopagus was—the Agora! I was happy to point out the most significant sites of the agora but was amazed all over again by how little preparation people do for their trip to Greece. It saddens me to think about how many stories are never heard, how many significant spots are never seen and appreciated, because people simply do not understand what they’re looking at or the important people and events that made their marks on these piles of stone.

Walking out of the north entrance of the Agora, we wandered over to Monastiraki Square and found Sabbas—my favorite ‘gyros pita’ place in Athens. Lamb gyros and cold Coke Zero! How can you beat that?

After lunch, we went to a rendezvous point I’d previously arranged with Anna Pylkas. She was not aware her Dad was in Athens with me. She thought she was just getting together with her Dad’s good friend. (It was, probably, an act of charity on Anna’s part although I’m sort of a godfather to the girl—we go back a long ways). Steve went for a walk, I sat sipping a coffee and waiting for Anna to show up. She did. We had a great natter. And then her Dad came up behind her and asked if she’d be interested in buying a watch. It was a classic double-take. Anna turned to shoo away another street vendor, saw her Dad and uttered a shriek that may well have been heard in Thermopylae. They hugged and shouted and cried. I sat watching, smug and satisfied in the role I’d played in arranging the surprise (dishonesty does have its uses on occasion).

I’m sitting in Starbucks (on the square of the Mitropolis Cathedral) catching up on some work while Steve and Anna walk to the Acropolis and share some father/daughter time. We’ll meet up in about an hour and then go eat at another Athens favorite of mine—Psaras.

It’s been another great day in Athens—gorgeous weather, breath-taking sites, good memories. Yes, it’s a rough job, but somebody’s got to do it.