Click on the link below to view the video from the day:

Olympia from Sarah Rossey on Vimeo.

Today was a day of “best” quotes. Unfortunately, I cannot report any of them for fear of damaging the reputations of the speakers. Except for Beverly Ward, of course, whose reputation is already in ruins. When asked her favorite sight at Olympia, she mentioned the statue of Hermes by Praxiletes: “I liked the naked man.”

We left Delphi at 7:30 and made the four hour drive to Olympia. Much of the drive paralleled the Corinthian Gulf and we were treated to panoramas of blue water, blue sky, lush green islands, and red-tiled villas along the way. Arriving at Antirio, we crossed the Rio bridge—the longest cable stay bridge in the world. A beautiful and elegant structure.

The rest of the drive to Olympia is unremarkable except for potholes and large trucks. Tiffany continued to exercise restraint about the deplorable road habits of the Greeks (“Knit one, pearl one”). Just before reaching Olympia, we stopped for gas. At the moment, gasoline is over $8 a gallon in Greece! I put almost $350 dollars of gas into the two vans! Ouch!

We grabbed a quick lunch at a pastry shop in modern Olympia and then drove to the site. What a great place to visit! We ran the length of the Olympic stadium (John Wilkins beat us all!). Tiffany, Valerie, and Geralyn treated us to cartwheels. We saw where the Olympic torch is lit every four years (at the altar of the Temple of Hera). We marveled at the size of the Temple of Zeus. We saw a 2000 year-old hotel (Howard called it the “Hotel 6 b.c.”). And the palestra and gymnasium where athletes exercised “gymnos” (naked—Beverly especially liked this. You may be detecting a theme here.)

From the site, we moved to the museum. The Olympia museum is rich and deep in holdings. Votive offerings. Corinthian helmets. A terracotta Nike. A statue of Hermes by Praxiteles. The pediment sculptures of the Temple of Zeus (amazing!).

We checked in to our hotel (Hotel Pelops—www.hotelpelops.gr) and took the rest of the afternoon to stroll, shop, and eat ice cream. (Kevin Duffin claims that calories from ice cream or gelato don’t digest into fat cells. Humph! And he claims to be a scientist!) We ate at the Ambrosia Restaurant (spaghetti and chicken, followed by massive quantities of bread and olives). The evening ended with us sitting in the hotel lobby reminiscing about the day and recounting our favorite sights and sayings.

Tomorrow, it’s over the spine of the Peloponnese (on some of the narrowest, winding roads in the world) to Corinth and Nafplio.

To view the video for the day, click on this link:

Vergina And Philippi from Sarah Rossey on Vimeo.

Today began in one of the best ways imaginable: friends waking to greet one another … homemade jams … the anticipation of good things to come.

The Hotel Evridiki is owned and operated by a sweet couple—Costas and Roula. Their operation is small and personal. Roula treats us as one of the family and breaks out the peach jam that she and her family grows and preserves. If you’re ever in Vergina …

After breakfast, we drove to the Tumulus Museum (just minutes away) and spent the next two hours viewing some of the most magnificent artifacts in Greece. These were the treasures buried with Philip II by his son, Alexander the Great. Armor and crowns. Jewels and silverware. Breathtaking tombs and mind-numbing riches. The holdings of Vergina are without parallel.

Next, we drove the 225 kilometers to Philippi. This is a great site, especially for those interested in the ministry and work of the Apostle Paul. The church Paul founded here was the first church in Europe. It was also a church that loved Paul dearly—not something that can be said about many of Paul’s churches! The ruins of Philippi are especially interesting because, apart from the Roman Philippi of Paul’s day, there are several large basilicae (churches) that were built for the Christian pilgrims who flocked to this site in the fourth and fifth centuries. The oldest church known is found here (fourth century). The museum of Philippi has just opened after a 10 year remodel!

Back to Vergina and dinner! We drove up the mountains to the Mparnna Taverna—perched on a hillside looking over the fertile Macedonian valley. What a feast! Lamb and veal, pork and sausage, mushrooms and beets, cabbage salad and stuffed peppers. We waddled away from the dinner table to stumble into bed. A long day. But definitely worth it!

Click on the link below to view the video of the day:

Untitled from Sarah Rossey on Vimeo.

At 8:00, Ed Johnson and I headed out with our backpacks to pick up the rental vans. Getting out of Athens is always an adventure. Traffic is awful, no one seems to know or care about rules of the road, and pedestrians/motorcycles/randomly-parked-cars make everything more difficult.

In spite of the challenges, Ed and I managed to maneuver our way from the rental car office to Syntagma Square, pick up the rest of the group (waiting so patiently with their bags in hand), and leave Athens in one piece.

We had a two hour drive to Thermopylae (on good, four-lane highway). Once at the famous battle-site, we relived the stand of the 300 Spartans against the Persian hordes. Phalanxes and “dories” (the long spears of the Spartans). Greaves and butt-spikes. The Phokian wall and Thespian warriors. It’s a great story celebrating a great event.

After refueling (autos and bodies), we drove to Meteora. This is surely one of the most dramatic and picturesque sights in the world. The hanging monasteries. Communities perched on top of columns of basalt. “Surreal” is the best word I know to describe this place. The Grand Meteoron is a wonderful place, with one of the best monastic manuscript collections in the world. A stunning chapel, a fascinating wine cellar, and the skulls of all the monks who have died at the monastery are only a few of the highlights of this place.

Back on the road to wrestle with one of the worst stretches of highway in all of Greece (which is saying something!). Switchbacks and steep grades. No shoulders next to precipitous drop offs. Truck traffic where no truck should venture. It’s the stuff of which nightmares are made. However, we survived and found our way into Vergina … and our temporary home at the Hotel Evrydike (www.evridiki.com.gr). We were warmly welcomed by Roula (the owner) and shown to our rooms.

We ate at a nearby taverna (also owned by Roula and her husband) and, after a long and full day, settled down for a good night’s sleep.

Click on the link below to view the video from the day:

Athens Day 3 from Sarah Rossey on Vimeo.

Another great day in paradise.

The weather today was in the 60s, sunshine, light breeze. Perfect for climbing the Acropolis. And that’s what we did today.

Bathe, breakfast, and out the door by 7:45. Metro to the Acropoli Metro Station. A hundred yards to the SE entrance to the Acropolis. We saw the Theater of Dionysius (where drama was born), the Aesklepion (where Athens went for healing), the Peripetos (where Aristotle wandered with his students), and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus (where Athens gathered to hear musical concerts and poetry readings).

Then up the slope to the Acropolis proper. First the Propylae–the monumental (and monumentally expensive) gateway to the holy Acropolis site. To the right as you climb the steps to the gateway is the exquisite Temple of Athena Nike–one of my favorite spots on the High City. Through the gateway to be overwhelmed by the site of the Parthenon, the lovely and graceful Erechtheon, and an expanse of real estate like no other in the world. Athens sprawls out around you in all directions. In the clear light today, we could see the Aegean sparkling in the distance and mountains shimmering on the horizon. It was a glorious day to be on top of the world.

We turned next to the Areopagus–the Hill of Ares (or, to the Romans, Mars). This was the site on which the powerful Areopagus Council met to discuss issues related to Athenian affairs. This is where the Apostle Paul made his impassioned speech (Acts 17) against idolatry and for resurrection. Walk over this small area and you’re bound to step in the footprints of Paul.

We paused for a very light lunch (pop, chips, and candybars!) in a nearby park, Then onto the Agora for a closer look at the haunts of Socrates and the place that figured more prominently in the daily life of ancient Athenians than any other site in the city. This is where Athens shopped and gossiped and heard the latest news and listened to philosophers and bought fast-food and had teeth pulled. Athens worshiped on the Acropolis and voted on the Pnyx and was entertained at the Odeon. But Athens lived in the Agora.

The Agora Museum (housed in the rennovated Stoa of Attalos) is one of the under-appreciated jewels of Athens. You’ll see some marvelous artifacts related to democracy here … a rare Spartan shield … ostraka (pottery shards) inscribed with famous names of men ostracized from Athens because they became too powerful and popular (Kimon, Pericles, Themistocles), and some wonderful examples of Athenian pottery.

Returning to the hotel, we had time for a nap and a coffee, some relaxed visiting, and a chance to rest our weary feet. At 7:30 pm, we set out for the Plaka district once more and ate (another!) hearty dinner. Now we’re back at the hotel, anticipating the next stage of our adventure. Tomorrow, Thermopylae and Meteora and Vergina! Macedonia, here we come!

Our video montage of the day:

April 2, 2011 Athens from Sarah Rossey on Vimeo.

Today was a great day!

We enjoyed  a fabulous breakfast (eggs, coffee, anchovies, olives, toast and honey, cheese, etc.) and, having fortified ourselves for the day and, met in the lobby at 8:00 to begin our adventures. Yes, all of us were eager to be off, to see the sights, to be suitably wowed by the wonders of ancient Greece. But wait! Something was missing. More to the point, someone was missing. It was only then that we realized the Johnsons were not in the lobby, had not been at breakfast, were last seen trudging wearily to their room the night before.

My daughter Sarah called their room to awaken as fast-asleep Sara Johnson and her even more asleep husband. Jet lag can be a brutal master!

The rest of us went on leaving my Sarah behind to shepherd Ed and Sara to a rendezvous later that morning. The larger group walked to Monastiraki Square (only to discover that, it being Saturday, the green-line of the Metro was closed), and then walked to the National Archaeological Museum. Along the way, we detoured to see the Athens’ meat market: cattle, sheep, pigs in various stages of dismemberment … fish, crab, squid, mussels in every shape and size. People yelling prices, cutting up meat with cleavers, hanging tripe and offal from hooks. It was messy, smelly, and glorious. Many of our tour members said it was the best part of the day!

At the National Archaeological Museum, we were disappointed to discover that—due to budget cuts—only half the museum was open for viewing. Apparently, part of the government’s austerity measures involved reducing the number of guards to oversee the collection! Still, this being the National Archaeological Museum of Athens and one of the finest/largest collections in the world, there was still plenty to see. The Mycenae collection (complete with the Mask of Agamemnon) … sculptures from the Archaic, Classical, and Hellenistic eras … and artifacts from Thera (a city on Santorini destroyed by volcanic eruption in the second millennium b.c.).

We grabbed a quick lunch at a pastry shop across the street. (Most of us had meat pies, ham and cheese, pizza. Kevin Duffin opted for the chocolate croissant.) Then the Metro (on a functional line) to the Acropoli Station. Along the way, Beverly had her camera and iPod stolen from her bag (“I never felt a thing!”). Beware of pickpockets on the Athens Metro!!!!

We toured the New Acropolis Museum—one of the wonders of modern Athens! Incredible artifacts. Incredibly designed museum. Parthenon sculptures. Korai and Kouroi. Caryatids. The Sandal Binder. Each of us had about three espressos in the Museum snack room. (Howard Polk is an espresso machine!)

Then it was back to the hotel. But wait. There were shops between the museum and the hotel, each of which required casing, combating, and conquering. Several of our group came back laden with the spoils of commercial war. (I won’t mention names, merely intitials: Nancy Harbron and Geralyn Polk.) Kevin Duffin had two gelatos (and a third after dinner that night!).

We waited for dark to descend on magical Athens and for the lights of the Acropolis to make that wonder of the world glow like a jewel in the night. The pedestrian walkway encircling the Acropolis is made for night walks, with a different vista of the Acropolis framed like some highlighted masterpiece from every new angle. We oohed, ahhed, and shutter-snapped our way around the Acropolis.

Finally, we ended up at Scholarios for dinner: cuttlefish, meatballs, greens, humus, sausage, sardines, Greek salads, and on and on. If we weren’t walking so much, we’d all be blimps!

Back to the room by 11:30 that night. You would imaging that a group so wined and dined, so pampered to the sights of ancient Athens, so well-led and tended would be grateful for their privileged treatment and show their leader appropriate honor. But, alas, no. People and their loyalties are so fickle. There were dark murmurings passed back and forth; seditious talk of uprising and mutiny; ugly character aspersions cast my way. And my sin? Suggesting that we needed to be out of the hotel door by 7:30 tomorrow morning in order to beat the crowds to the ever-popular Acropolis. Oh, the unfairness of it all! Oh, the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune.

Being ever the reasonable man and sensitive to the wishes of others, I informed the entire group that they could leave for the Acropolis at any time they pleased. However, I—as the only one who knew the way—was leaving at 7:30 and if they wanted to actually see the site, they would do well to leave with me. I think this demonstrated not only my munificent character but the merciful way I dealt with back-stabbing ingrates who dared to question my master plan.

Tomorrow is the Acropolis, Agora and the Agora Museum – the best and most significant of ancient Athens.

Once again, the weather … well, you’ve already heard this about the trip and far be it from me to rub in how wonderful the weather has been. Today was a little breezier and, when in the wind, felt a little cold. But I’ll take it!

We drove to Mycenae this morning. What a unique site! Most of what we’ve seen in Greece to this point has been from the Classical Era of ancient Greece (5^th Century b.c.—Acropolis, e.g.) or from the Hellenistic Era (4^th Century b.c.—Vergina museum). But the ruins and artifacts of Mycenae are far older (from the 2^nd Millennium before Christ—about 1500 b.c.!). We visited the famous “beehive tombs” (and heard the stories of Atreus, Agamemnon, Clytemnestra, and Orestes) and walked around the grave circles where Heinreich Schleimann discovered artifacts that gave new meaning to Homer’s phrase “Mycenae rich in gold.” We walked up to the crown of the citadel and viewed the megaron (or throne room) where Agamemnon himself once sat. A great site.

After a quick visit to the Mycenae Museum, we turned the car north to Corinth and went to visit the Corinthian Canal. I’ve seen it dozens of times but it never fails to awe with its scale. What an incredible accomplishment! Then out to Cenchrea, the harbor (east of Corinth) from which Paul, Aquila, and Priscilla set sail for Ephesus at the end of the second missionary journey. A beautiful little spot with little to see but much to remember!

That about wrapped up our trip. We headed back to Nafplio and had lunch (gyros pita one last time). Finally, a quick trip up the Palamadi Castle—the large, crenellated fortress that perches above the harbor and town of Nafplio. Lots of stairs. Lots of nooks and crannies to explore. A great way to spend the afternoon.

We’re about to head out for dinner (as soon as I post this blog)—our last night. A good meal, some conversation about best memories, a gelato to cap off the evening, and then (hopefully) a good sleep. We leave about 7:00 tomorrow morning to get to the airport and drop off Mike and Rick for their flight home. I’ll stay another day and then I’m on my way as well. It’s been a great trip. Rick and Mike have been wonderful travel companions. I hope their memories of our ten days in Greece will be as rich and affectionate as mine.

Sorry to sound like a broken record, but the weather was absolutely fabulous again today. Couldn’t have been better. I’m not sure I’ve had a trip to Greece where the weather was so cooperative.

We left Olympia this morning about 9:00. The owner of the Pelops Hotel (wonderful little hotel, BTW—try it out next time you’re in Olympia: ) suggested that we avoid the long, looping, and very busy interstate (running from Patra to Corinth) and instead take the road through the heart of the Peloponnese (the road from Olympia to Tripoli). Either way would get us to Corinth eventually. But I knew the interstate road well (it is an awful drive!) and opted for the road less travelled.

At Corinth, with the Temple of Apollo in the background

To say the drive was “interesting” would be a vast understatement. About 10 kilometers out of Olympia, the road turned into a piece of spaghetti that some evil genius had piled up on the side of a mountain. Narrow. Twisting. No shoulders. Sharp drop offs. Incredible. For the next 75 kilometers (or was it 1500 kilometers?), the fun just kept coming. For some of that way, the road was so narrow all traffic had to come to almost a complete stop just to pass each other. The entire highway was no wider than a single lane on most of the roads we are accustomed to. And there were buses! And trucks! And this was a “national highway”!

It finally relented and became a decent road about halfway to Tripoli. From there on, it was smooth driving. We got to Corinth about 11:45 and proceeded immediately to the site. Rick and Mike decided they really wanted to climb AcroCorinth and, since everything was closing at 3:00 (the museums here are still on “winter hours”), we had to hurry. Through the site and museum, grabbing a candy bar at a roadside stall for lunch, and then back

At the Temple of Aphrodite atop the AcroCorinth

in the car to drive most of the way up AcroCorinth. It was just after 2:00 pm when we arrived at the parking lot high above the ancient city of Corinth. We had less than an hour to make the (considerable) hike up the mountain to the Temple of Aphrodite (highest spot on the AcroCorinth), snap a few pictures, and then get back down. We made it though. Rick and Mike did fine. Their guide, on the other hand, was feeling the results of too many years and too little exercise of late.

We drove on to Nafplio (where we’ll be staying for the next two nights—the Byron Hotel:  www.byronhotel.gr. Rest … food … well, by now you know the routine.

The weather could not have been more perfect today. No, really. About 70. Sky blue and clear. A soft breeze blowing. It was delightful.

Mike and Rick at the entrance to the Olympia site

We checked out of our hotel (the Delphi Palace–thanks Lydia!) and drove along the northern edge of the Gulf of Corinth–through Agios Nikalaus, Naupactos, and Antirhio–to the new bridge spanning the Gulf at Rhio/Patra. What a beautiful suspension bridge! It glistens white against the blue of sky and sea–spreading its wings like a graceful dove. Quite a feat of engineering! I usually take the ferry over the Gulf (Agios Nikalaus to Eghio) but the bridge is a faster route to Olympia.

We crossed over to the Peloponnese and drove towards Olympia. I got sleepy and we pulled into a small town to get a coffee. It’s Sunday here and the Greek Orthodox Church was letting out from morning worship. We stood in the town square and watched as they formed up in a procession–led by a brass band–and walked an icon through the streets of the village. It was fun to watch–a slice of Greek life.

At the stadium at Olympia

We arrived in Olympia and went straight to the site. It being Sunday today, the site was free! We spent a couple of hours wandering around the temples and stadium and gymnasiums, gaping at the size of some of the ruins, awed by the accomplishments of men dead 2500 years! The trees were in blossom–rich purple and white. It was a gorgeous day with the sun shining, the wind wafting, and the bees buzzing. We had a great time.

Then to the museum. What an incredible collection. Stuff from 4500 b.c. all the way through the Roman era. The pediment sculptures from the Temple of Zeus always amaze me and move me profoundly. The Hermes of Praxiteles is one of the great masterpieces of the ancient world. The museum alone makes up for all the difficulties you must encounter to get to this site so far from the rest of the Greek world.

We checked into the Pelops Hotel (www.hotelpelops.gr), rested a bit, and then went out for a lovely dinner at a largely deserted restaurant. All in all, a great day.