Acropolis Map

Category: Acropolis, Athens, Sites
Date 07.30.10 Author: TimWoodroof

The Acropolis of Athens sits right in the heart of the city. To it’s north is the Agora. East is the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Along its southern edge lies the Theater of Dionysos, the Aesclepion, and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. West is the Pnyx.

The Acropolis itself is a rough projection of rock that rises 200 feet above the level of the surrounding city. At its top is an expansive plateau measuring some 300×150 yards. Here lie the remains of the four most famous buildings in the Western world: the Propylaea (or monumental gateway), the Temple of Athena Nike, the Erechtheon, and (of course) the Parthenon.

The map below shows the Acropolis plateau, as well as the buildings arranged along its southern flank. In addition, the site is color-coded to indicate the dating of construction for the existing buildings.

acropolis

Acropolis Photos

Category: Acropolis, Athens, Sites
Date 06.17.10 Author: TimWoodroof

acropolis-in-sunThe Acropolis of Athens. Ancient. Majestic. World-famous. 

Of all the remains passed on to us by the Ancients, only a handful have achieved the status of “icon.” The Great Wall of China. The Pyramids of Egypt. The Coliseum of Rome. All are testaments to the indomitable will of man … to ambition and power and steely-eyed determination.

The Acropolis of Athens is one of those iconic edifices. It isn’t the highest hill in Athens. Mount Lykabettós—just to the northeast—is almost twice as tall. But the Acropolis had just the right combination of accessibility, flat summit, natural defenses, and fresh Acropolis from Areopaguswater sources. The summit—about 300 yards long and 170 yards wide—made a perfect spot for settlements, then palaces, and—eventually—temples; commoners finding themselves displaced by kings who, in turn, were evicted by the gods.

Whatever the hour, the Acropolis dominates Athens. It is a stunning, beautiful testament to the creativity, artistry, and ambition of the ancient Athenians. In the sunlight of early morning and late afternoon, it glows with a golden patina that takes your breath away.

Realize that the Acropolis as we know it required a perfect storm to be born. A host of conditions had to come together in just the right way at just the right time. It took a Perikles—a man of towering ambition and sweeping vision and vast political clout—to drive an accomplishment of this scale. It took a wealth of talent to translate vision acropolis-from-the-agorainto marble and bronze: Kallíkrates the architect; Pheídias the sculptor; and the hundreds of artisans who squared blocks and fluted columns and coffered ceilings. It required the right circumstances: heroic events to celebrate, great victories to commemorate. And, it needed the right crisis: had the Persians not torn the Acropolis apart, Perikles would not have had a blank slate on which to paint his masterpiece.

And last, but not least, it took a boatload of money. The Acropolis that you see before you cost billions of dollars in today’s money to build. Egypt had such vast reserves of cash. Persia. But Athens? A single city? 

Athens led the Delian League–an association of city-states banded together for mutual defence against the dreaded Persians. Contributions to this common defence acropolis02poured into Athens from all over the Mediterranean world. What were they to do with all that money lying around? Perikles had a suggestion. Why not invest it to make Athens the greatest city the world had ever known? Why not use the money to build an Athens the world would envy? Perikles called this an appropriate use of the funds managed by the city. His opponents called it the largest embezzlement in known history. Whatever the spin, it seems clear that funds collected out of fear ended up furthering the cause of beauty.

Within a year of finally completing the Acropolis building program, Athens will lose the Peloponnesian War. Its fleet will be destroyed and, with it, its empire and its wealth. Sparta will garrison troops right here … on the Acropolis. For a time, democracy will die. Athens has enjoyed her “Golden Age”—an explosion of achievement in almost every area of human endeavor that lasted 75 years. The Acropolis and her edifices stand as a lasting tribute to that brief flowering of creative and visionary genius. It is as if giants walked the land in those days, larger in ambition and dreams and daring than the lesser mortals who came after them.


 

 

Greece Trip April 2010–Days 1&2

Category: April 2010, Greece Travel Trips
Date 04.04.10 Author: TimWoodroof

I am sitting at the Hotel Neos Olympos in Athens. Finally here!

Getting to Athens this time was a bit of a nightmare. My flight out of Nashville was delayed, and I missed my connection out of New York. Delta wanted to put me on the same flight the next day, which would have meant a full 24 hour layover. Yuck! So I  begged and wheddled until they found a KLM flight that put me into Athens about 5 hours than originally scheduled.

Only I had to go through Amsterdam–always a zoo. Barely made my connection there (I was the last one on the plane!). Finally got into Athens at 1:30 and met my good friend Steve Pylkas. He was on his way to Finland and I persuaded him to route through Athens so we could spend a day together. The fact that his daughter (Anna) was also in Athens doing a study abroad (and that he could surprise her) had nothing to do with his decision. (I’m sure!)

We spend the afternoon and evening walking around the Plaka district. Weather is beautiful–clear, in the 70’s. The Acropolis glistened. We ate ice cream, had coffee, talked in the shadow of the Kapnikarea church, and otherwise thoroughly enjoyed our time. Ended with a great dinner ((lamb, olives) at the Acropolis Restaurant in the Plaka. They had live balalika music and dancers. We talked politics and religion–topics that are particularly appropriate for an evening in the city of Aristotle and Socrates.

Now, a good night’s rest. After a long and uncomfortable flight, nothing beats a comfortable bed. Neos Olympos is a great little hotel, clean and cheap, with handy access to the Metro and the wonders of Athens.

New Acropolis Museum: Quiz

Category: New Acropolis Museum, Quizes
Date 01.24.10 Author: TimWoodroof
  1. What artifacts are displayed at the New Acropolis Museum?
    1. Classical artifacts from all over Greece
    2. Artifacts excavated on or near the Acropolis
    3. Only artifacts related to the world-famous Parthenon
    4. Only “new” artifacts related to the Acropolis and discovered in the last 25 years
  2. Which of the following collections is not on display at the New Acropolis Museum?
    1. Artifacts excavated on the slopes of the Acropolis
    2. Remains of archaic temples like the Hekatompedon
    3. Mycenaean artifacts discovered by Heinrich Schliemann
    4. Sculptures that adorned the Parthenon
  3. Which was the first temple to grace the top of the Acropolis?
    1. The Archaic Temple
    2. The Hekatompedon
    3. The Erechtheon
    4. The Temple of Athena Polias
  4. Which temple marked the most sacred spot on the Acropolis?
    1. The Erectheon
    2. The Parthenon
    3. The Temple of Athena Nike
    4. The Temple of Olympian Zeus
  5. An archaic statue on display at the New Acropolis Museum is named “Moschophoros.” What does that name signify?
    1. A general term for statues of young maidens
    2. The Calf-bearer
    3. A nickname for the god Apollo
    4. The winner of an Olympic contest
  6. The exquisite “Sandalbinder”—the epitome of Classical sculpture—differs from the Archaic style primarily:
    1. in its natural, spontaneous pose
    2. in the “ordinariness” of its subject matter
    3. in the utter realism of its representation
    4. All of the above
  7. The “Parthenon” is a Greek word for:
    1. The messenger god Parthenias
    2. The house of the virgin
    3. The holy of holies
    4. Victory
  8. Who was the British noble who carted off so many of the Parthenon sculptures 200 years ago?
    1. Sir Julian Devries
    2. Earl Mountbatten
    3. King Henry VIII
    4. Lord Elgin
  9. The subject of the entire Parthenon frieze reliefs was:
    1. The Panathenaic Procession
    2. The Gigantomachy—god’s vs Titans
    3. The Amazonomachy—Greeks vs Amazons
    4. The Trojan War
  10. The pediment sculptures of the Parthenon portrayed:
    1. The Athenian victory at Marathon
    2. The labors of Herakles
    3. Scenes from the life of Athena
    4. The first kings of Athens


1) b
The purpose of the New Acropolis Museum is to house all of the artifacts discovered on the top or around the slopes of the Acropolis itself. Because the old museum was so small and inadequate, many of the Acropolis artifacts were housed at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens or kept in museums around the world—most notably, the British Museum in London. With this new, spacious, and majestic museum, the Greek authorities are unifying all the Acropolis artifacts in this one place and requesting that all foreign governments now holding such artifacts repatriate them.

2) c
The Mycenaean Collection is on display at the National Archaeological Museum at another location in Athens. It is one of the richest and most spectacular archaeological collections in the world. However, since these finds were excavated at Mycenae on the Peloponnese, they do not fall within the purview of the New Acropolis Museum.

3) d
The Temple of Athena Polias (Athena of the city) was the earliest temple we know of. Built soon after the decline of the Mycenaean settlement of the Acropolis, in the 8th Century b.c., this temple was small and made of wood rather than stone. The bronze acroterion representing a gorgon (on display at the New Acropolis Museum) is the only artifact that remains of this temple.

4) a
The Erechtheon was the spiritual center of the Acropolis. The Parthenon, while imposing and ornate, essentially served as the city treasury. Athens kept its gold, silver, and jewels there. But the Erechtheon housed the modest, olive-wood statue of Athena that was Athens’ holiest relic. Like the first temple on the Acropolis (the Temple of Athena Polias) and the temple that succeeded it (the Archaic Temple—eventually destroyed by the Persians), the Erechtheon (the last of the series of temples to occupy this sacred spot) not only give shelter to the cult statue but also commemorated the tombs of Athens’ first kings and watched over the sacred olive tree that Athena gave Athens in her contest with Poseidon.

5) b
The Calf-bearer. The statue depicts a young man carrying a calf on his shoulders, probably on the way to sacrifice. This beautiful statue is a prime example of Archaic sculpture. It is highly stylized and not intended to be a realistic representation. The beard is blocky. The proportions aren’t quite right. There is a standard pose (full frontal posture, left leg slightly forward) and that intriguing Attic (or Archaic) Smile so commonly portrayed on statues of this period.

6) d
The Sandalbinder, from the parapet surrounding the Temple of Athena Nike, depicts Nike bending to adjust her sandal—whether to remove her shoes before entering the temple or replacing them on her way out. It is a simple act, unremarkable. The sculptor has caught the goddess doing something very human. She isn’t slaying a giant. She isn’t flying above the earth. She is fiddling with her shoes. And yet, she is beautiful. Her garment drapes and clings. Her body, though twisted, is balanced. Her posture borders on the awkward but, in the end, epitomizes grace. Nike adjusts her sandals—the most ordinary of tasks—and manages to be a goddess as she does so. This is Classical Sculpture at its essence. Nothing formulaic or stiff. Nothing symbolic or posed. Nothing even very heroic. Natural. Realistic. Human. Graceful. Spontaneous. Beautiful.

7) b
Parthenon means “house of the Virgin.” The goddess Athena was revered for several qualities: her martial skills, her wisdom, and her sexual purity. She was never paired sexually with god or mortal (as were so many of the other gods). Rather, as the champion of reason and peace, she is also seen as the enforcer of sexual modesty and temperance.

8 ) d
Lord Elgin is the Englishman Greeks love to hate. While Greece was languishing under foreign occupation (the Ottomans), Lord Elgin was made Britain’s ambassador to the Ottoman Empire (1779-1803). While in that role, he proceeded to cart off as many of Athens’ treasures—particularly the statuary of the Parthenon—as he could get his hands on. His claimed motive was to preserve the artifacts from the shocking disregard shown by the Ottomans. In his defense, it should be remembered that the Ottomans had used the Parthenon and Propylaia as storage sheds for supplies of gunpowder. The Parthenon stores had blown up in 1687 and destroyed much of the central sections of the building. The so-called “Elgin Marbles” now reside in the British Museum in London and are the objects of intense international debate as Greece pressures the British to repatriate these important artifacts.

9) a
The Parthenon frieze reliefs (running around the entire perimeter of the temple’s cella, at ceiling level) tell one long story—a procession of people and animals moving up to the Acropolis during the Panathenaia: the holiest day of Athens’ year. On this day, the entire city turns out to walk the Sacred Way, singing, bringing sacrificial offerings, and led by a young girl who carries the new robe she and her friends have woven to dress the statue of the goddess. 115 blocks of stone, with almost 400 distinct figures, are used to tell the tale. This series of carvings has been called, “the most perfect creation of classical sculpture.”

10) c
The pediment sculptures (that filled the triangular space under the roof at each end of the Parthenon) tell the story of the contest between Athena and Poseidon (for patronage of the city) and the birth of Athena (who lept, fully grown, from the forehead of Zeus). Since the Parthenon was intended to honor Athena (the “virgin goddess”), it was only appropriate that she star in the major sculpture groupings that adorned the temple.

New Acropolis Museum: Why Go There

Category: New Acropolis Museum
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

The New Acropolis Museum has just opened (after nine years of delay and struggle). It is the new “must see” spot in Athens. Why?

  • The spectacular views of the Acropolis from its glass-encased top floor, if nothing else.
  • The displays of the Parthenon sculpture on that same floor. Get up close and personal with artifacts Entrance01that haven’t seen the (public) light of day for decades.
  • The stunning selection of statues (korai  and kouroi, Nikes and Athenas) that inhabit the first floor. This collection in the New Acropolis Museum rivals that of the National Archaeological Museum (also in Athens) as the best assortment of Archaic and Classical statuary in the world.
  • The Sandalbinder—also on display on the first floor. The quintessential Classical work: natural, un-posed, spontaneous, beautiful.
  • You get to stand within inches of the Caryatids—those sturdy maidens who, for the past 25 centuries, have supported part of the roof of the Erechtheon on their heads. No small feat and worthy of honor. Plus, they’re gorgeous!
  • The incredible venue. Glass walkways with archaeological remains beneatParthenon from Museumh … spacious galleries … multi-media presentations … dramatic, glass-sheathed top floor.

The old museum, atop the Acropolis and near the Parthenon, was small, dark, and cramped. Soon after it was completed (1886), ongoing excavations of the Acropolis brought to life a wealth of buried statues, pediments, metopes, and frieze reliefs (in 1887!) which simply overwhelmed the old space. All 4000 artifacts discovered on and around the Acropolis have never had a home in which they could be displayed and appreciated together. Now they do. Soon after the new museum opened, I spent 10 days here—writing the script for our audioguide—and could not get enough. Six, eight, ten hours a day and there was always something new to learn, to see, to appreciate.

Next time you’re in Athens, you must make time to see the new museum. It’s guaranteed to knock your socks off!

New Acropolis Museum: How to Get There

Category: New Acropolis Museum
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

Street map to New Acropolis MuseumThe New Acropolis Museum is located just two-hundred yards south of the Acropolis itself in the Makrigiani District. The main entrance is off of Dionissiou Areopagitou Street, part of the pedestrian promenade that winds around the southern and western flanks of the Acropolis.

Getting to the museum could not be easier. Take the Metro (Line 2) to the Akropoli exit (just one stop south of Syntagma Square). Head upstairs following the “Dionissiou Areopagitou” signs. Escalators will carry you up to the surface level. When you hit the sidewalks, you are on Makrigiani Street and should be headed north. Walk straight ahead about 20 yards. This will dump you onto Dionissiou Areopagitou Street, at which point you will turn left (west). Go another 25 to 30 yards and the entrance to the museum will be on your left. Walk down some stairs, go through a plexiglass gate, and you’ll see a doorway with an “Entrance” sign above it.

Alternatively, if you have just visited the Acropolis and want to top your tour with a look at the New Museum, walk downhill (east) on Dionissiou Areopagitou Street, with the Acropolis on your left and a line of expensive apartments and condos on your right. Look for a break in the housing as you near the bottom of the hill—on your right. Again, go down some stairs, through a plexiglass gate, and you’ll see the entrance ahead of you.

Areopagus: Accessibility

Category: Areopagus
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

handicapped grey1handicapped grey1

handicapped grey1handicapped grey1

 

The Areopagus is one of the least accessible sites in Athens.Areopagus steps

Getting to the Areopagus is fairly easy. There is a paved road leading up to the base of the hill (and then on to the Acropolis entrance). Though somewhat steep and, I’d imagine, difficult to navigate with an unpowered wheelchair, vehicles can drive up and drop off right at the base of the Areopagus. At least you’re able to see the plaque containing Paul’s address to the Council (albeit in ancient Greek) from this vantage point. There are benches nearby, shaded by overhanging Cypress trees, and handicapped accessible bathrooms just a few yards removed.

It’s getting to the top of this rock that proves challenging. Until recently, the only access to the summit was via the worn, slippery, dangerous stone steps that have served as the main access to this site for millennia. Even people in great shape and with no physical disabilities had to be careful to watch their footing and keep their balance. In the rain, you’d need to be suicidal to climb these stairs.Areopagus--new steps01

A few years ago, a steel and wooden staircase was added on the south side of the Areopagus. This makes access safer for most of us, although it certainly does not provide access to those in wheelchairs or using walkers.

Even if you are physically able to navigate the stairs, there is still the surface of the summit—knobbed and uneven and fractured. It’s like walking on a moon-scape. There is a hint of a path on part of the hill—although even that is more gesture than help.

Bottom line: don’t attempt unless you are sure-footed and confident of your balance … absolutely never attempt in the rain.

Agora Museum: How to Get There

Category: Agora Museum
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

Agora Museum--how to get thereThe Agora Museum is located inside the agora site. [Read the post on Agora: How to Get There to find your way to the agora.]

The museum sits on the east side of the agora in the restored Stoa of Attalos. If you enter the agora from the North Entrance, follow the Panathenaic Way (the main, paved walkway running through the agora) south for 50 yards. The Stoa of Attalos will be on your left and unmissable. (Coming from the Acropolis, you’ll enter the agora from the south. In that case keep walking north and the Stoa will be on your right.)

The access to the Stoa is on the southern end—the end furthest from the North Entrance. Climb up into the Stoa. The museum is located in rooms that run along the back wall of the Stoa. You can locate the entrance to the museum about 1/3 of the way down.

Suggested Itinerary for Athens: Day Two

Category: Athens
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

We devote today to the mighty Acropolis and its surrounding sites. It will be a long and tiring day, so try to pace yourself. Drink lots of water. Stop often to rest.

Start your morning P1010145with the South Acropolis tour. Try to be at the gate when they open. The audio guide will eventually lead you straight up the hill to the Acropolis itself so you can move seamlessly to the Acropolis tour. We start early because, as the morning progresses, the site gets more crowded and hot.

Climb the Sacred Way to the home of Athena. Learn why the tiny temple of Athena Nike is both a symbol of hope and a site of great tragedy. Ooh and aah over the Parthenon and Erechtheon and the panoramic views of Athens. It will take you two or three hours to do justice to this historic place. Did I mention you should drink lots of water?Areopagus

Drop by the Areopagus to listen to the echoes of gods and men. Remember that the Apostle Paul stood here.

As noon approaches, walk down Apostolou Paulou (north) towards Thissio Station. Find a restaurant with an Acropolis view and take a long, leisurely lunch. Try moussaka or some souvlaki.

The afternoon belongs to the Agora. This wonderful site is like an old book—much worn and battered but so full of stories! The Agora was the home of Athens’ civic, commercial, and social life … where democracy worked its magic … a spot frequented bStoa of Attalos colonnade02y Socrates, Aristotle, and Pericles. There are very few places in the world as steeped in significant history as the Agora.

The reconstructed Stoa of Attalos is an architectural jewel, giving visitors a great feel for how these buildings functioned originally and what the Agora looked like in its prime. Housed inside the Stoa is the tiny Agora Museum—one of my favorites.

You’ve hit it hard today. Take a break. Get a frappe, people-watch, and stroll through the Plaka district—a touristy but still attractive area.

Greeks eat late, so try to hold off supper until after 20:00. Look for a restaurant off the beaten path … one that has traditional Greek dishes served family style. Strike up a conversation with a native Greek. (An offer to buy ouzo usually starts the words flowing.)

Suggested Itinerary for Athens: Day One

Category: Athens
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

We’ll do lots of walking today. Most hotels include a hearty breakfast in their rate. Eat a big one and make sure you put on your most comfortable shoes. Hit the sidewalks early.5.2 Hadrian's Arch02

Let’s start with the Athens Familiarization Walk. The audio guide begins at Syntagma Square. Find your way there, grab a shady spot and press “Play.” Then stroll the National Gardens, walk around the Acropolis, visit Hadrian’s Library, meander through the Plaka District, and otherwise learn your way around this great city.

Grab lunch at a likely spot (there are restaurant options everywhere) and then walk to the New Acropolis Museum. (If you want to give your feet a break, you could catch the Metro.)

New Acropolis MuseumThe new Museum opened in June, 2009 . It is a much worthier home for the Acropolis treasures than where they have been—crammed in a tiny, inadequate box on top of the Acropolis itself. At last, for the first time, all the artifacts related to the Acropolis can be on display at the same time and place. The wonderful Kritios Boy. The Parthenon friezes and pediments. The evocative Sandal Binder. You can be one of the lucky few to visit this great museum while it is still a novelty.

You’ve been on your feet all day. Take a little rest. Perhaps return to your hotel for a (brief) rest. Or enjoy a leisurely coffee at one of the many cafés and tavernas in Athens. Do some people watching. Try to guess where people are from by their clothing, gestures, haircuts, and volume.

After the sun sets, do the Acropolis Night Walk. This breathtaking stroll will lead you back around the Acropolis on the Promenade. Only this time, the Acropolis will be illuminated !Erechtheon by night

End the day by threading your way through the interesting Plaka district. Scout out a likely restaurant. Try something unusual (the grilled squid is excellent) and wash it down with a glass of local wine. A shot of ouzo should have you ready for bed whatever your body clock reads.

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