Acropolis Photos

Category: Acropolis, Athens, Sites
Date 06.17.10 Author: TimWoodroof

acropolis-in-sunThe Acropolis of Athens. Ancient. Majestic. World-famous. 

Of all the remains passed on to us by the Ancients, only a handful have achieved the status of “icon.” The Great Wall of China. The Pyramids of Egypt. The Coliseum of Rome. All are testaments to the indomitable will of man … to ambition and power and steely-eyed determination.

The Acropolis of Athens is one of those iconic edifices. It isn’t the highest hill in Athens. Mount Lykabettós—just to the northeast—is almost twice as tall. But the Acropolis had just the right combination of accessibility, flat summit, natural defenses, and fresh Acropolis from Areopaguswater sources. The summit—about 300 yards long and 170 yards wide—made a perfect spot for settlements, then palaces, and—eventually—temples; commoners finding themselves displaced by kings who, in turn, were evicted by the gods.

Whatever the hour, the Acropolis dominates Athens. It is a stunning, beautiful testament to the creativity, artistry, and ambition of the ancient Athenians. In the sunlight of early morning and late afternoon, it glows with a golden patina that takes your breath away.

Realize that the Acropolis as we know it required a perfect storm to be born. A host of conditions had to come together in just the right way at just the right time. It took a Perikles—a man of towering ambition and sweeping vision and vast political clout—to drive an accomplishment of this scale. It took a wealth of talent to translate vision acropolis-from-the-agorainto marble and bronze: Kallíkrates the architect; Pheídias the sculptor; and the hundreds of artisans who squared blocks and fluted columns and coffered ceilings. It required the right circumstances: heroic events to celebrate, great victories to commemorate. And, it needed the right crisis: had the Persians not torn the Acropolis apart, Perikles would not have had a blank slate on which to paint his masterpiece.

And last, but not least, it took a boatload of money. The Acropolis that you see before you cost billions of dollars in today’s money to build. Egypt had such vast reserves of cash. Persia. But Athens? A single city? 

Athens led the Delian League–an association of city-states banded together for mutual defence against the dreaded Persians. Contributions to this common defence acropolis02poured into Athens from all over the Mediterranean world. What were they to do with all that money lying around? Perikles had a suggestion. Why not invest it to make Athens the greatest city the world had ever known? Why not use the money to build an Athens the world would envy? Perikles called this an appropriate use of the funds managed by the city. His opponents called it the largest embezzlement in known history. Whatever the spin, it seems clear that funds collected out of fear ended up furthering the cause of beauty.

Within a year of finally completing the Acropolis building program, Athens will lose the Peloponnesian War. Its fleet will be destroyed and, with it, its empire and its wealth. Sparta will garrison troops right here … on the Acropolis. For a time, democracy will die. Athens has enjoyed her “Golden Age”—an explosion of achievement in almost every area of human endeavor that lasted 75 years. The Acropolis and her edifices stand as a lasting tribute to that brief flowering of creative and visionary genius. It is as if giants walked the land in those days, larger in ambition and dreams and daring than the lesser mortals who came after them.


 

 

Greece Trip April 2010–Days 1&2

Category: April 2010, Greece Travel Trips
Date 04.04.10 Author: TimWoodroof

I am sitting at the Hotel Neos Olympos in Athens. Finally here!

Getting to Athens this time was a bit of a nightmare. My flight out of Nashville was delayed, and I missed my connection out of New York. Delta wanted to put me on the same flight the next day, which would have meant a full 24 hour layover. Yuck! So I  begged and wheddled until they found a KLM flight that put me into Athens about 5 hours than originally scheduled.

Only I had to go through Amsterdam–always a zoo. Barely made my connection there (I was the last one on the plane!). Finally got into Athens at 1:30 and met my good friend Steve Pylkas. He was on his way to Finland and I persuaded him to route through Athens so we could spend a day together. The fact that his daughter (Anna) was also in Athens doing a study abroad (and that he could surprise her) had nothing to do with his decision. (I’m sure!)

We spend the afternoon and evening walking around the Plaka district. Weather is beautiful–clear, in the 70’s. The Acropolis glistened. We ate ice cream, had coffee, talked in the shadow of the Kapnikarea church, and otherwise thoroughly enjoyed our time. Ended with a great dinner ((lamb, olives) at the Acropolis Restaurant in the Plaka. They had live balalika music and dancers. We talked politics and religion–topics that are particularly appropriate for an evening in the city of Aristotle and Socrates.

Now, a good night’s rest. After a long and uncomfortable flight, nothing beats a comfortable bed. Neos Olympos is a great little hotel, clean and cheap, with handy access to the Metro and the wonders of Athens.

Agora: Why Go There?

Category: Agora
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

P1010229Although there’s not a lot to see now, the agora is arguably the most important site in Athens. This was the beating heart of Athens’ social, commercial, legal, political, and (in many ways) religious activities. Athenians visited the Acropolis … the agora is where they lived.

You want to visit the agora because:

  • Many famous people also visited here: philosophers like Socrates, Plato, Aristotle, Zeno; politicians like Pericles, Kimon, Solon; generals like Themistocles, Julius Caesar, Alexander the Great; speakers like Demosthenes and Cicero; religious figures like the Apostle Paul.
  • Important events transpired here: several of Socrates’ “Dialogues”; the trial of Socrates; the beginning of the Stoic school of philosophy; the reign of the Tyrants; publication of Solon’s reforms; the intimate workings of Athenian democracy; the preaching of Paul.
  • Some of the most important structures in Athenian life were built here: the senate house; the records hall; the archon’s offices; eight stoae (for shopping and meetings); temples; a theater; the city “bema” (or speakers’ podium—the equivalent of the rostrum in Rome); the Panathenaic Way.
  • One of the best (albeit small) museums in Athens is sited here.
  • The restored Stoa of Attalos gives you a sense of the sophistication and power of the Athenians and what the agora would have looked like in the day.
  • The Hephaestion is one of the most inspiring sights in Athens.

Agora: Preparation

Category: Agora
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

The following books are recommended:

John Camp. The Athenian Agora: Excavations in the Heart of Classical Athens. Thames and Hudson, 1992.

http://www.amazon.com/Athenian-Agora-Excavations-Classical-Antiquity/dp/0500276838/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1250016759&sr=8-15

 

John Camp. The Athenian Agora: The Short Guide to the Excavations. American School of Classical Studies, 2003.

http://www.amazon.com/Athenian-Agora-Short-Excavations-Picture/dp/0876616430/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1250017000&sr=8-2

Or download a digital version at:

http://www.agathe.gr/Texts/pdfs/PB16_English.pdf

 

These websites are worth a visit:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ancient_Agora_of_Athens

http://www.agathe.gr/index.html

http://www.athensinfoguide.com/wtsagora.htm

 

For a virtual tour:

http://www.agathe.gr/cgi-bin/qtvr

Walking Downtown Athens

Category: Athens
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

Central athensThe best of ancient Athens is conveniently packed into one square “Golden Mile” at the center of the city. Almost every site you visit is within walking distance.

As you can see on the map, the Acropolis and Agora are next door neighbors … Syntagma Square is a few hundred yards away … interesting spots like the Kerameikos and the Temple of Olympian Zeus are easily reached on foot. Restaurant areas like the Plaka and Monastiraki are literally just down the street.

Still, Athens is a big city. Busy streets, unfamiliar neighborhoods, and strange street names written in a strange alphabet! But don’t worry. A few simple tricks will help you walk fearlessly through this bustling and overcrowded city.

First, as in any large city, stay aware of your surroundings. Be alert to the people around you, the time of day, the kind of neighborhood you’re in, and the traffic whizzing by. Watch for easy-to-recognize landmarks. Don’t be oblivious.  A constant “awareness” is your best defense against getting lost or being taken advantage of.

Remember this: the Acropolis is your friend. It peeks out between buildings and hovers above you wherever you are in downtown Athens. A little time studying the “faces” of the Acropolis (being able to tell which is its north or west sides, for instance) will help you orient yourself no matter how confused or turned around you get.

There are a few major streets in downtown Athens you should know. Ermou Street defines the north boundary for the Golden Mile and runs east/west. The new and lovely pedestrian Promenade (Athens’ outdoor museum) will let you walk the western and southern edges of the Acropolis in safety and comfort. And Amalias Street, though busy and noisy, will always lead you back to  Syntagma Square.

The blue-hatched streets on the map to the left represent “pedestrianized” roads. As you can see at a glance, a significant portion of downtown streets have been dedicated to foot traffic. You’ll still see cars and lorries meandering these roads, but they look lonely and out of place.

Your hotel will have a free and detailed map of Athens to help you navigate the city. Get one and then start walking!

The Athens Metro

Category: Athens
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

Athens MetroAthens has a great Metro system, connecting all the dots of this great city. Fast, clean, cheap, and convenient, the Metro will take you anywhere your weary feet won’t go. Hop the Metro to visit a museum or take a day trip down to Piraeus. Jump on to get from your hotel to the Acropolis and back again. Buy a day pass (if you have a day to spare) and spend it going from one stop to another, visiting the Olympic facilities, the port, and outlying neighborhoods.

Like every public transit system, there are a few tricks to learn to help you navigate the city like a native. First trick: get a Metro map! There are maps everywhere: printed, posted on walls, displayed inside the trains themselves. You really can’t navigate the Athens Metro by hunch and feel. A Metro map is absolutely necessary to getting around the city … unless you don’t really care where you wind up.

Once you have map-in-hand, using the Metro is fairly simple:

  1. Determine where you are (the name of the station you’re in).
  2. Determine where you want to go (the name of your destination).
  3. Determine the subway line (or lines) that will get you to your destination. Do you need Line #1, #2, or #3? Is it a straight shot? Will you have to change lines?
  4. Determine the direction you need to go. Subway tracks run endlessly between two stations: the first and the last. These stations are used to tell you the direction trains are headed.

Say you are in Syntagma Station and want to go to the Larissa terminal. (Study the map to the right.) Notice that you need Line #2—the red line. In Syntagma, look for signs directing you to Line #2. But which direction do you want to travel? In this example, you want to go north, towards Agios Antonios (the final station on Line #2 in the direction you want to travel). So follow signs to Line #2—Agios Antonios. Clear?

There will be four stops before you arrive at Larissa. You can count them on the map and as the subway makes its required stops. Make sense?

Right in the center of Athens, there is an important triangle of stations that each serve two lines: Omonia (1 & 2), Monastiraki (1 & 3), and Syntagma (2 & 3). You have to go through one of these three stations if you need to change lines in order to reach your destination.

It sounds a lot more complicated than it really is. With a little practice and a bit of patience, you’ll be hopping on and off Metro trains like you were born in Athens.

Trains run daily from 5:30 until after midnight. There are manned and automatic ticket booths at every station.

Suggested Itinerary for Athens: Day Two

Category: Athens
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

We devote today to the mighty Acropolis and its surrounding sites. It will be a long and tiring day, so try to pace yourself. Drink lots of water. Stop often to rest.

Start your morning P1010145with the South Acropolis tour. Try to be at the gate when they open. The audio guide will eventually lead you straight up the hill to the Acropolis itself so you can move seamlessly to the Acropolis tour. We start early because, as the morning progresses, the site gets more crowded and hot.

Climb the Sacred Way to the home of Athena. Learn why the tiny temple of Athena Nike is both a symbol of hope and a site of great tragedy. Ooh and aah over the Parthenon and Erechtheon and the panoramic views of Athens. It will take you two or three hours to do justice to this historic place. Did I mention you should drink lots of water?Areopagus

Drop by the Areopagus to listen to the echoes of gods and men. Remember that the Apostle Paul stood here.

As noon approaches, walk down Apostolou Paulou (north) towards Thissio Station. Find a restaurant with an Acropolis view and take a long, leisurely lunch. Try moussaka or some souvlaki.

The afternoon belongs to the Agora. This wonderful site is like an old book—much worn and battered but so full of stories! The Agora was the home of Athens’ civic, commercial, and social life … where democracy worked its magic … a spot frequented bStoa of Attalos colonnade02y Socrates, Aristotle, and Pericles. There are very few places in the world as steeped in significant history as the Agora.

The reconstructed Stoa of Attalos is an architectural jewel, giving visitors a great feel for how these buildings functioned originally and what the Agora looked like in its prime. Housed inside the Stoa is the tiny Agora Museum—one of my favorites.

You’ve hit it hard today. Take a break. Get a frappe, people-watch, and stroll through the Plaka district—a touristy but still attractive area.

Greeks eat late, so try to hold off supper until after 20:00. Look for a restaurant off the beaten path … one that has traditional Greek dishes served family style. Strike up a conversation with a native Greek. (An offer to buy ouzo usually starts the words flowing.)

Suggested Itinerary for Athens: Day Three

Category: Athens
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

After visiting six sites yesterday, you may think you’re getting off easy by only touring one museum today. Wrong! The National Archaeological Museum is massive, its holdings extensive. It will wear you out.

This jewel is cert21-Aphroditeainly the greatest museum in Greece and one of the best in the world. It opens at 8:00 (except on Mondays, when it opens at 12:30).  You will want to go early and stay late.

There is enough here to keep you absorbed for a week. You will run out of energy and attention span long before you see everything. The treasures of Mycenae. Incredible statuary. Stunning displays of bronzes and pottery. This is the best and deepest collection of ancient Greek artifacts anywhere on earth. You will look back at this museum as one of the highlights of your Greece trip.

There’s a coffee shop/café in the basement if you want to grab a sandwich to keep you going.  There is also a gift shop with some wonderful (but quite expensive) souvenirs.

Spend as much of the day as you want and, then, take off the remainder of the afternoon. Nap. Have a coffee. Watch people. Strike up conversations. See what’s happening on Syntagma Square (there’s always a rally or protest or parade going on).

One of the best things you can do for yourself on this trip is journaling. Keeping a running record of what you did each day—what you saw, what you felt and thought, who you met—is a wonderful way to document your journey and to re-live the trip in the future. I give some journaling hints at GreeceAudioGuides.com under the “Free Stuff” tab. Why not take an hour or two this afternoon to chronicle the last few days?

As the light dies (your last day in Athens!), take a final saunter through the Plaka district. Buy a set of worry beads. Tip a street-musician (a poor man’s version of supporting the fine arts). For dinner, you can either return to one of the restaurants you particularly enjoyed or go looking for a new taste experience.  Relax and enjoy yourself.

Suggested Itinerary for Athens: Day One

Category: Athens
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

We’ll do lots of walking today. Most hotels include a hearty breakfast in their rate. Eat a big one and make sure you put on your most comfortable shoes. Hit the sidewalks early.5.2 Hadrian's Arch02

Let’s start with the Athens Familiarization Walk. The audio guide begins at Syntagma Square. Find your way there, grab a shady spot and press “Play.” Then stroll the National Gardens, walk around the Acropolis, visit Hadrian’s Library, meander through the Plaka District, and otherwise learn your way around this great city.

Grab lunch at a likely spot (there are restaurant options everywhere) and then walk to the New Acropolis Museum. (If you want to give your feet a break, you could catch the Metro.)

New Acropolis MuseumThe new Museum opened in June, 2009 . It is a much worthier home for the Acropolis treasures than where they have been—crammed in a tiny, inadequate box on top of the Acropolis itself. At last, for the first time, all the artifacts related to the Acropolis can be on display at the same time and place. The wonderful Kritios Boy. The Parthenon friezes and pediments. The evocative Sandal Binder. You can be one of the lucky few to visit this great museum while it is still a novelty.

You’ve been on your feet all day. Take a little rest. Perhaps return to your hotel for a (brief) rest. Or enjoy a leisurely coffee at one of the many cafés and tavernas in Athens. Do some people watching. Try to guess where people are from by their clothing, gestures, haircuts, and volume.

After the sun sets, do the Acropolis Night Walk. This breathtaking stroll will lead you back around the Acropolis on the Promenade. Only this time, the Acropolis will be illuminated !Erechtheon by night

End the day by threading your way through the interesting Plaka district. Scout out a likely restaurant. Try something unusual (the grilled squid is excellent) and wash it down with a glass of local wine. A shot of ouzo should have you ready for bed whatever your body clock reads.

Hello Athens

Category: Athens
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

Hello AthensAthens. The oldest city in Europe. Cradle of Western civilization. Birthplace of democracy. Capital of Greece. Home to some five million souls—one third of the population of the entire country.

This is where Socrates lived and died … where Alexander the Great and Caesar walked … where Sophocles wrote his plays and Pheidias carved his statues. This is where much of western civilization—many of the values and ideas that shape us—took form. Athens. A great city by any measure. And—when measured by standards like beauty, intellectual attainment, freedom, the arts, courageous and creative individuals—Athens is surely the greatest city in the world.

The treasure of ancient Athens is locked inside the modern city. And modern Athens is a sprawling, crowded, noisy, traffic-choked mess. But to appreciate the treasure, you have to understand the box it comes in. More than most, today’s Athens is a city of contrasts. Old and new. The tasteless and the elegant. Ugly concrete buildings and golden marble masterpieces. Polluted haze and gloriously blue skies. Filthy streets and pristine museums.

All of it is Athens. You have to take the bad with the good.

The modern city is big, with a metropolitan area covering 165 square miles. And it is population dense, ranking as the 40th most crowded city in the world and the most jam-packed city in Europe.

Fortunately, we don’t have to wander the entire city or wrestle with the entire population to enjoy the best of Athens. Most of the significant sites and museums that draw from Greece’s storied past are concentrated in a single square mile of downtown Athens. In one relatively easy stroll, you can take in the most important ancient sites Athens has to offer. The treasure in the box!

Welcome to Athens. I hope your visit here will be an experience you never forget.

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