Areopagus: Why Should I Go There?

Category: Areopagus
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

Acropolis from AreopagusIt’s not much to look at … a rocky nub overshadowed by its far more imposing and famous neighbor, the Acropolis. There aren’t any ancient ruins that grace the site.

But you don’t come to the Areopagus to see … you come to hear. There are dozens of stories that crowd this lonely rock, stories about gods and heroes and apostles. There may not be a spot in Athens (or the world, for that matter) where more important events, involving more important people, at more important points in history took place. The Areopagus is poor in sights and rich in significance.

It was here that Ares defended himself against murder charges. A son of Poseidon attempted to rape the daughter of Ares. When Ares intervened and killed the boy, Poseidon wanted justice (or revenge). The Olympian gods gathered here to judge the matter and, eventually, set Ares free. From that point on, the Areopagus became the site where all capital cases—murder, treason, heresy—were tried.

Xerxes pitched his command tent on this site during the Persians’ occupation of Athens. From this vantage point, Xerxes watched his soldiers tear the city apart. Here, the high-class and highly-paid prostitute Phryne, about to be convicted of blasphemy, stood and dropped her robe. So smitten was the jury with her beauty, they immediately pronounced her innocent (of blasphemy anyway!).

And it was here that the Apostle Paul stood before the learned men of Athens and proclaimed—in the shadow of the Acropolis—that God did not live in temples and was not tended to by human hands. They listened closely until he talked about resurrection from the dead, at which point they lost interest. Not an uncommon reaction throughout the centuries.

If you visit this site without knowing the stories, you will be disappointed. But with a little imagination and an understanding of the events that transpired here, the Areopagus could just become your favorite spot in Athens.

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Areopagus: What Will I See?

Category: Areopagus
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

Paul's Speech plaqueThere isn’t much to see on the Areopagus itself. It’s just a rock hill, barren except for cigarette butts and trash. Yes, there is a bronze plaque of the Apostle Paul’s speech to the Areopagus mounted on the base of the hill. And, yes, there are the original (and highly worn) stairs leading up to the summit.

But it’s not what you see on the Areopagus that makes this site so compelling … it’s what you see from it. Some of the best panoramic vistas in Athens are found right here on this little hill. The Acropolis rises up above you to the east: grand and majestic and imposing. The ancient agora (the living heart of Athens—where Plato walked and Pericles governed) spreads out below you to the north. West of you is a great view of the Pnyx, where citizens gathered in ancient times and voted on the important issues of the day. South is the Filapappos Hill (also known as the Hill of the Muses). Everywhere you turn, as you stand on this historic spot, there is new and important site to see.

And it’s not just old stuff. There are wonderful views of modern Athens as well. Watch people strolling along Apostolou Paulou Street (the pedestrian promenade that borders the west side of the Acropolis/agora. See busy Adrianou Street, with its teeming crowds and sidewalk restaurants. Catch sight of Mount Lycavittos in the distance with a sea of red and blue and white roofs in between.

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Agora Museum: Accessibility

Category: Agora Museum
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

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The only accessibility challenge with the Agora Museum is getting to it. [Read the post on Agora: Accessibility which outlines a few accessibility issues to be aware of when visiting this site.] There is a paved path from the entrance of the Agora site to the Stoa of Attalos. A wooden ramp gives wheelchair access up to the Stoa itself.

Once in the Stoa, the floor is smooth and level. Benches in the Stoa permit visitors to rest and catch their breath and, especially on hot summer days, enjoy respite from the sun. There are handicapped stalls in the restroom, although you are required to negotiate a step to reach them.

The museum itself is all on one level and does not require visitors to negotiate any steps. Because the museum is small and narrow, crowds can pose a problem. During peak hours, getting around in a wheel chair or with a cane/walker can be a challenge. Visiting early or late in the day will help you avoid the worst of the crowds.

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Agora: Word to the Wise

Category: Agora
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

1138-1b_0118More than most sites in Athens, the agora requires some kind of guide: person, book, or audio. If you don’t know what you’re looking at, if you can’t listen to the stories and understand the history, you won’t get much from a visit here.

With a guide, you should plan on spending at least an hour at the agora. I’ve spent half a day here and enjoyed every minute. The more you know (or, at least, the more your guide knows), the more enjoyable your time here will be.

You will be asked to check larger rucksacks and bags either at the ticket booth or (more likely) at the Stoa of Attalos.

Wear comfortable shoes with firm ankle support. Much of your walking will be “off trail” on this site, so watch your step carefully. It would be easy to turn an ankle or take a tumble here.

Water fountain and restrooms are located in the Stoa of Attalos—on the north end.

Videos and photos are allowed throughout the site. Because of the poor state of preservation of many of the buildings here, good lighting will be crucial to good pictures. Try to come in the morning or evening to get shadow lines and some contrast in your photos.

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Walking Downtown Athens

Category: Athens
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

Central athensThe best of ancient Athens is conveniently packed into one square “Golden Mile” at the center of the city. Almost every site you visit is within walking distance.

As you can see on the map, the Acropolis and Agora are next door neighbors … Syntagma Square is a few hundred yards away … interesting spots like the Kerameikos and the Temple of Olympian Zeus are easily reached on foot. Restaurant areas like the Plaka and Monastiraki are literally just down the street.

Still, Athens is a big city. Busy streets, unfamiliar neighborhoods, and strange street names written in a strange alphabet! But don’t worry. A few simple tricks will help you walk fearlessly through this bustling and overcrowded city.

First, as in any large city, stay aware of your surroundings. Be alert to the people around you, the time of day, the kind of neighborhood you’re in, and the traffic whizzing by. Watch for easy-to-recognize landmarks. Don’t be oblivious.  A constant “awareness” is your best defense against getting lost or being taken advantage of.

Remember this: the Acropolis is your friend. It peeks out between buildings and hovers above you wherever you are in downtown Athens. A little time studying the “faces” of the Acropolis (being able to tell which is its north or west sides, for instance) will help you orient yourself no matter how confused or turned around you get.

There are a few major streets in downtown Athens you should know. Ermou Street defines the north boundary for the Golden Mile and runs east/west. The new and lovely pedestrian Promenade (Athens’ outdoor museum) will let you walk the western and southern edges of the Acropolis in safety and comfort. And Amalias Street, though busy and noisy, will always lead you back to  Syntagma Square.

The blue-hatched streets on the map to the left represent “pedestrianized” roads. As you can see at a glance, a significant portion of downtown streets have been dedicated to foot traffic. You’ll still see cars and lorries meandering these roads, but they look lonely and out of place.

Your hotel will have a free and detailed map of Athens to help you navigate the city. Get one and then start walking!

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The Athens Metro

Category: Athens
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

Athens MetroAthens has a great Metro system, connecting all the dots of this great city. Fast, clean, cheap, and convenient, the Metro will take you anywhere your weary feet won’t go. Hop the Metro to visit a museum or take a day trip down to Piraeus. Jump on to get from your hotel to the Acropolis and back again. Buy a day pass (if you have a day to spare) and spend it going from one stop to another, visiting the Olympic facilities, the port, and outlying neighborhoods.

Like every public transit system, there are a few tricks to learn to help you navigate the city like a native. First trick: get a Metro map! There are maps everywhere: printed, posted on walls, displayed inside the trains themselves. You really can’t navigate the Athens Metro by hunch and feel. A Metro map is absolutely necessary to getting around the city … unless you don’t really care where you wind up.

Once you have map-in-hand, using the Metro is fairly simple:

  1. Determine where you are (the name of the station you’re in).
  2. Determine where you want to go (the name of your destination).
  3. Determine the subway line (or lines) that will get you to your destination. Do you need Line #1, #2, or #3? Is it a straight shot? Will you have to change lines?
  4. Determine the direction you need to go. Subway tracks run endlessly between two stations: the first and the last. These stations are used to tell you the direction trains are headed.

Say you are in Syntagma Station and want to go to the Larissa terminal. (Study the map to the right.) Notice that you need Line #2—the red line. In Syntagma, look for signs directing you to Line #2. But which direction do you want to travel? In this example, you want to go north, towards Agios Antonios (the final station on Line #2 in the direction you want to travel). So follow signs to Line #2—Agios Antonios. Clear?

There will be four stops before you arrive at Larissa. You can count them on the map and as the subway makes its required stops. Make sense?

Right in the center of Athens, there is an important triangle of stations that each serve two lines: Omonia (1 & 2), Monastiraki (1 & 3), and Syntagma (2 & 3). You have to go through one of these three stations if you need to change lines in order to reach your destination.

It sounds a lot more complicated than it really is. With a little practice and a bit of patience, you’ll be hopping on and off Metro trains like you were born in Athens.

Trains run daily from 5:30 until after midnight. There are manned and automatic ticket booths at every station.

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Suggested Itinerary for Athens: Day Two

Category: Athens
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

We devote today to the mighty Acropolis and its surrounding sites. It will be a long and tiring day, so try to pace yourself. Drink lots of water. Stop often to rest.

Start your morning P1010145with the South Acropolis tour. Try to be at the gate when they open. The audio guide will eventually lead you straight up the hill to the Acropolis itself so you can move seamlessly to the Acropolis tour. We start early because, as the morning progresses, the site gets more crowded and hot.

Climb the Sacred Way to the home of Athena. Learn why the tiny temple of Athena Nike is both a symbol of hope and a site of great tragedy. Ooh and aah over the Parthenon and Erechtheon and the panoramic views of Athens. It will take you two or three hours to do justice to this historic place. Did I mention you should drink lots of water?Areopagus

Drop by the Areopagus to listen to the echoes of gods and men. Remember that the Apostle Paul stood here.

As noon approaches, walk down Apostolou Paulou (north) towards Thissio Station. Find a restaurant with an Acropolis view and take a long, leisurely lunch. Try moussaka or some souvlaki.

The afternoon belongs to the Agora. This wonderful site is like an old book—much worn and battered but so full of stories! The Agora was the home of Athens’ civic, commercial, and social life … where democracy worked its magic … a spot frequented bStoa of Attalos colonnade02y Socrates, Aristotle, and Pericles. There are very few places in the world as steeped in significant history as the Agora.

The reconstructed Stoa of Attalos is an architectural jewel, giving visitors a great feel for how these buildings functioned originally and what the Agora looked like in its prime. Housed inside the Stoa is the tiny Agora Museum—one of my favorites.

You’ve hit it hard today. Take a break. Get a frappe, people-watch, and stroll through the Plaka district—a touristy but still attractive area.

Greeks eat late, so try to hold off supper until after 20:00. Look for a restaurant off the beaten path … one that has traditional Greek dishes served family style. Strike up a conversation with a native Greek. (An offer to buy ouzo usually starts the words flowing.)

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Suggested Itinerary for Athens: Day One

Category: Athens
Date 08.27.09 Author: TimWoodroof

We’ll do lots of walking today. Most hotels include a hearty breakfast in their rate. Eat a big one and make sure you put on your most comfortable shoes. Hit the sidewalks early.5.2 Hadrian's Arch02

Let’s start with the Athens Familiarization Walk. The audio guide begins at Syntagma Square. Find your way there, grab a shady spot and press “Play.” Then stroll the National Gardens, walk around the Acropolis, visit Hadrian’s Library, meander through the Plaka District, and otherwise learn your way around this great city.

Grab lunch at a likely spot (there are restaurant options everywhere) and then walk to the New Acropolis Museum. (If you want to give your feet a break, you could catch the Metro.)

New Acropolis MuseumThe new Museum opened in June, 2009 . It is a much worthier home for the Acropolis treasures than where they have been—crammed in a tiny, inadequate box on top of the Acropolis itself. At last, for the first time, all the artifacts related to the Acropolis can be on display at the same time and place. The wonderful Kritios Boy. The Parthenon friezes and pediments. The evocative Sandal Binder. You can be one of the lucky few to visit this great museum while it is still a novelty.

You’ve been on your feet all day. Take a little rest. Perhaps return to your hotel for a (brief) rest. Or enjoy a leisurely coffee at one of the many cafés and tavernas in Athens. Do some people watching. Try to guess where people are from by their clothing, gestures, haircuts, and volume.

After the sun sets, do the Acropolis Night Walk. This breathtaking stroll will lead you back around the Acropolis on the Promenade. Only this time, the Acropolis will be illuminated !Erechtheon by night

End the day by threading your way through the interesting Plaka district. Scout out a likely restaurant. Try something unusual (the grilled squid is excellent) and wash it down with a glass of local wine. A shot of ouzo should have you ready for bed whatever your body clock reads.

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